I just bout a 95 Camaro 3.4 v6 Sunday for $550 and now I'm trying to fix it but I'm a little stumped. The car idles a lil rough not to bad though and kinda hesitates when I try to rev the engine in park/neutral. If I put the car in drive it's a auto transmission it won't allow me to rev over 1500 rpms. It just gets to 1500 and stops even with the pedal to the floor. I've replaced intake plenum gasket cause of a vacuum leak I've replaced the Tps fuel filter and cleaned the iac and egr. I've checked to see if injectors are leaking but there not. I've checked to see if the fpr has ruptured but no gas in vacuum line. Checked fuel pressure with car off but pump on and I'm getting about 38 psi but as soon as the pump turns off it drops to 0 right a way. With the car running I get about 38 psi and reving the engine about 40-42 psi. Can anyone help. I'm leaning towards the fuel pump being the cause of it not holding pressure but can any one help with the lil rough idle and not being able to rev engine over 1500 rpm and of course it has no power. I've gutted the cat also.
I think the pressure when rev to 1500 was 40 or 42 psi. I'll double check and let you know. No cel and no codes stored. In park or neutral I can rev up to 3500 haven't tried any higher. It's just real sluggish
No load rev is not the same as a rev under load...timing adjustments and such...it could be ICM related...remove it and have it tested...at least three unless to get out warm...
So after correcting 2&5 wires and replacing 1&4 coil pack and new plugs and wires, fixing vacuum leaks and fuel filter having the icm checked replacing the Tps and gutting the cat still can't rev engine over 2000 while in drive
Also it is idling great now just don't have any power. I've had a 95 Camaro 3.4 before and it had more power than this one does. It just hits 2000 rpms and stops doesn't try to go any higher than that. And driving it it drives ok just no get up to it it will go over 2000 while the car is moving just not sitting still. If it is in drive holding the brakes it will stop at 2000
Also it is idling great now just don't have any power. I've had a 95 Camaro 3.4 before and it had more power than this one does. It just hits 2000 rpms and stops doesn't try to go any higher than that. And driving it it drives ok just no get up to it it will go over 2000 while the car is moving just not sitting still. If it is in drive holding the brakes it will stop at 2000
Well, if you moving at a steady speed the RPMs will be steady.
Holding the brakes and revving the engine, what do you expect?
If it goes beyond 2000 RPM doing that, you've just blown the transmission or torque converter.
You should be able to raise the rpms over 2k while in drive holding the brakes, but you would be burning the tires off. You have a spark or airflow issue, since fuel pressure is close to normal.
I have checked spark and all cylinders are firing and the order is correct and i can do away with the filter and no improvement. So if it's spark related what did I miss and if it's air what did I miss
Crank Position Sensor...$20 part that'll cause much the same issues you're having...located on the passengers side of the block behind the exhaust pipe and manifold...
Wouldn't the crank position sensor also cause the engine to run rough if it even runs. My car idles great doesn't miss or anything nothing besides won't rev over 2000 when in drive trying to brake torque and no acceleration
It's just a guess really, much like everything else you try and diagnose over the internet :lol:
Seriously, though, you have something interfering with delivery of either air, fuel, or spark...fuel you think is okay, I'm assuming you checked/changed the air filter, and you feel your spark is good.
Now, however, you can't rev past a certain point which makes me lean towards timing...and the fact it can't advance it far enough to build power (the ICM would also contribute to this, but you've had it tested). The only other item on the list for spark control is the crank sensor...
That being said, there is one other item on the list that would cause the symptoms you are describing and is common to the 2.8/ 3.1/ 3.4 motor lineup...worn cam lobe(s)...just about every one of these I've opened has had some measure of wiped lobe to some degree or another...one of which only had 74,000 miles on it...
But before you go cracking the valve covers and looking for sloppy push rods, you might want to just change the CKPS, recheck the air filter, and have a second look at that FPR...
You know, you could also ohm out the injectors...maybe a few pintles are getting stuck...
I'm going to change the crank sensor this weekend I'm not even going to try and test it because of the position it is in. Not even sure if I can get to hands in there so I'm going to take it off and just replace it. Any other suggestions about what it may be so I can check it also so while I'm in there. Hope it is the crank sensor but never had one do this if it is. Also just caused a bad miss or a no start.
Where is the crank sensor on this damn car. Is the on front of engine by crank or is it where I've read it is and it is on passenger side of engine below exhaust manifold. And where is the cam sensor
From what I've read the crank sensor on the front of the engine behind the harmonic balancer is what controls the motor from 3000 rpms I have tested it and it is good and I have almost most gotten the the crank sensor in the side of the block out. Should I go ahead and replace both
From what I've read the crank sensor on the front of the engine behind the harmonic balancer is what controls the motor from 3000 rpms I have tested it and it is good and I have almost most gotten the the crank sensor in the side of the block out. Should I go ahead and replace both
The one in front requires you to pull the harmonic balancer...personally, I would change both, BUT I would do them one at a time...replace the one on the side, see how it runs, and then change the other...
Update just started to double check to make sure everything is still firing and once again I found 1&4 not firing. Took the new cool pack off and swapped with 2&5 cause I knew it was good and installed and now the new one is sparking and the old that I moved is not so I'm on my way to get an icm even though it checked good when I had it tested
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