1995 3.4L V6 Camaro Coolant System Overheating! - Camaro Zone - Camaro Forums and News

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Old 07-08-2012, 04:05 PM   #1
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1995 3.4L V6 Camaro Coolant System Overheating!

Ok, so this all started a few months ago when one of the crimped hoses on the heater hose assembly (see image) split and started leaking.
https://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos...18193982_n.jpg
For some reason I am unable to locate a replacement! I was able to find one in a local junk yard but both sets of hoses had been cut. So, temporarily, a ran straight heater hose from the heater core to the water pump. I think that this may be one contributing factor to my overhall problem.

I replaced the thermostat less than a month ago, the water pump is less than 6 months old, and I replaced the radiator less than a year ago.

Situation as of today. My car was parked and not started since friday night. I started the car and within a few minutes began driving. I had driven less than 5 miles and the temperature gauge had shot up to 260 degrees and stayed that way while I turned around and drove home. I turned off the engine and popped the hood. There was no white smoke from the exhaust while running and no coolant leaks that I could see. The coolant sounded like it was boiling. The coolant recovery tank was full (HOT level), but the radiator didn't seem to have ANY coolant. I had checked prior te leaving and there had been coolant in the radiator.

So, is the coolant not traveling from the recovery tank to the radiator? It definitely isn't cooling down when the fan comes on. Could it be due to a loss in system pressure since a ran the straight hoses as a temporary fix?

Any help or advice, (Except replace the car, LOL) would be appreciated!
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:12 PM   #2
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Radiator cap could be toast and did you get all the air out of the system when u filled it back up?
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:14 PM   #3
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Test or replace the radiator cap.
If the cap is bad the system can't build pressure.
If it can't build pressure it will overheat.
You need an 18psi cap with the one way round check valve on the inside.
Make sure you get the correct one for YOUR car.
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:20 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyVet View Post
Test or replace the radiator cap.
If the cap is bad the system can't build pressure.
If it can't build pressure it will overheat.
You need an 18psi cap with the one way round check valve on the inside.
Make sure you get the correct one for YOUR car.
Thank you NavyVet, I will look into that. Did you happen to look at the picture I provided the link for? Any idea where I could find a replacement, or what the actual part description may be? I have taken the part into Pep Boys, Autozone, and Kragen and no one seems to know what it is called or where to get one.
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:32 PM   #5
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i believe this is the part GMPartsDirect.com - Find a Item


but look at these diagrams

GMPartsDirect.com - Find a Item
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Old 07-08-2012, 04:32 PM   #6
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Those are heater hoses ... The Chevy dealer should be able to get u a replacement
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by socalgordy View Post
Thank you NavyVet, I will look into that. Did you happen to look at the picture I provided the link for? Any idea where I could find a replacement, or what the actual part description may be? I have taken the part into Pep Boys, Autozone, and Kragen and no one seems to know what it is called or where to get one.
As for the part in the picture, I had to get mine from the dealer.
Had the dealer replace it too fwiw.
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Comp cams Xtreme Energy LT1 266HR-14 street cam and springs..
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:09 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michaelrulaz View Post
i believe this is the part GMPartsDirect.com - Find a Item


but look at these diagrams

GMPartsDirect.com - Find a Item
the part he needs isn't in any of those.
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96 T/A, Black/Graphite Leather, T-Tops, 6 speed, 10 speaker Delco/Bose "Monsoon"
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Total engine rebuild at 187,020 miles.
AIR delete. Bored .030 over.
Comp cams Xtreme Energy LT1 266HR-14 street cam and springs..
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:36 PM   #9
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Ok, so it's only been about two hours since parking the car and everything is still too hot to work on but I noticed what appears to be a small, slow coolant leak and it appears to be leaking from the top left of the timing cover! This is just below the thermostat housing/ water neck and everything in the area is dry so I do not believe it is leaking from there. Is it possible to have coolant leaking from behind the timing cover?
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Old 07-08-2012, 05:40 PM   #10
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As for the part in the picture, I had to get mine from the dealer.
Had the dealer replace it too fwiw.
Navyvet, I found the part on Ebay, it's used but looks to be in good condition and has all the hoses attached and is being offered at $40.00. Do you remember how much you purchased the part for Brand new from the dealer?
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:46 PM   #11
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3 or 4 times that amount.
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96 T/A, Black/Graphite Leather, T-Tops, 6 speed, 10 speaker Delco/Bose "Monsoon"
Original owner, 190k miles and counting.
Total engine rebuild at 187,020 miles.
AIR delete. Bored .030 over.
Comp cams Xtreme Energy LT1 266HR-14 street cam and springs..
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Old 07-08-2012, 06:53 PM   #12
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Pics of where the leak is. Ive owned a 3.4 so I might be a lil more help
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Old 07-08-2012, 09:41 PM   #13
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Have you tried looking on RockAuto.com? They offer a discount for us.
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Old 07-09-2012, 08:17 PM   #14
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Have you tried looking on RockAuto.com? They offer a discount for us.
^^^ for CZ members?
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Old 07-09-2012, 09:54 PM   #15
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Yes. Look at the supporting vendors.
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:15 PM   #16
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Those blow timing covers all the time I've done 7 of them
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Old 07-09-2012, 10:17 PM   #17
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And yes coolant will leak from there because there are passages behind the cover mine blew a year ago
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Old 08-05-2012, 03:50 PM   #18
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We were planning on cutting the ends of the pipes where the hoses are fitted. then we're gonna use silicone, blue or green, and hose clamps...How hard was it to get the entire piece out?
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:46 AM   #19
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If your looking for replacement hoses try specter magnacool. They come in long lengths are stainless steel corrugated hoses cost a lot less then a dealer hose. http://www.jegs.com/i/Spectre/865/78...rentProductId=
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Old 08-10-2012, 12:00 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arc View Post
We were planning on cutting the ends of the pipes where the hoses are fitted. then we're gonna use silicone, blue or green, and hose clamps...How hard was it to get the entire piece out?
shouldnt be hard at all disconnect the hosing from both the heater core and motor and its two bolts
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