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Old 07-09-2013, 04:27 PM   #1
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HELP!! Headers installation

I need some input on how to take out the stock headers of my 1997 v6 camaro and how to put in new pacesetter headers. Would I have to take out the engine and put the new headers on or can I just lift up the car and take out the stock headers and put the new headers on from underneath the car and if so would I need to move or take off anything to take the headers off and put them on.
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:36 PM   #2
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Best way to do it that I've found, lift the car up, and remove and install them from under the car
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:46 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Meatwad View Post
Best way to do it that I've found, lift the car up, and remove and install them from under the car
Did you have to remove anything besides the headers? Also how long would it take?
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:55 PM   #4
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I was able to do mine without removing anything. It took me an entire weekend but I had to deal with old rusted manifolds. I could probably do it all in a day now that everything is in good order.
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:16 PM   #5
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I was able to do mine without removing anything. It took me an entire weekend but I had to deal with old rusted manifolds. I could probably do it all in a day now that everything is in good order.
What size of wrench(s) did you have to use? Or in that case what all tools did you have to use?
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:24 PM   #6
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It was all socket wrenches, if I had air tools it would have been much easier
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:26 PM   #7
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Alright, what helped you get the rusty bolts and what not off?
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:33 PM   #8
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Let wd-40 soak, then single hex socket, if they round, vice grips, if the heads snap easy outs. It's a s*** deal
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayce View Post
Alright, what helped you get the rusty bolts and what not off?
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:01 PM   #10
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This, and a big *** mallet.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:17 AM   #11
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Did mine in a couple of days too, but I only had short bursts of time to work on it as I was still in high school at the time. This was a few years ago.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:36 AM   #12
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Me and a buddy did it (the first time ever for both of us) in about 12 hours of labor for the full exhaust. On my 3.8, getting off the old manifolds were a pain because of the rust. Since your cars older than mine, I'll assume yours is rusty too lol. That was the majority of the time. We lifted my car and used his air tools as well. I'm not sure about what you have to remove and not remove because we removed my entire exhaust. I can say the headers were worth every penny. Had them for a year now and love them
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriss6744 View Post
Me and a buddy did it (the first time ever for both of us) in about 12 hours of labor for the full exhaust. On my 3.8, getting off the old manifolds were a pain because of the rust. Since your cars older than mine, I'll assume yours is rusty too lol. That was the majority of the time. We lifted my car and used his air tools as well. I'm not sure about what you have to remove and not remove because we removed my entire exhaust. I can say the headers were worth every penny. Had them for a year now and love them
I am removing my entire exhaust and putting pacesetter headers in, x-pipe, no cat, 2 magnaflow bullet mufflers and rectangle tips. I'm either going to run the exhaust in front of the rear tires or run all the way to the back. Pretty much true dual exhaust is what I'm doing
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayce View Post

I am removing my entire exhaust and putting pacesetter headers in, x-pipe, no cat, 2 magnaflow bullet mufflers and rectangle tips. I'm either going to run the exhaust in front of the rear tires or run all the way to the back. Pretty much true dual exhaust is what I'm doing
Post up a exhaust video wen it's done!!! I wanna hear how it sounds
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:03 PM   #15
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Post up a exhaust video wen it's done!!! I wanna hear how it sounds
Will do man!
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:05 PM   #16
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What should I do if the rusted bolts start to strip?
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:34 PM   #17
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What should I do if the rusted bolts start to strip?
Vice grips
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:27 PM   #18
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Here's a short writeup of advice I gave somebody else on a header install:
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Originally Posted by WarShrike
At the time, it was the hardest thing I'd ever done to a car. And I did it all on my own. Take your time, take some breaks if you're having issues or call on somebody of you're needing help. I spread this out over 2 days because of work schedules and stuff.
1 week leading up to header removal:
Get a few cans of PB Blaster, spray all bolts on header flange and ball flange down at the base where it meets the y-pipe. Do this every day, before and after you take it for a drive. It might also be a good time to clean/degrease the engine bay and underside of the car real well before you do this job. It had looked like I had gone slip'n'sliding in an oil slick when I first pulled my stock exhaust out.

I'd recommend buying new spark plug wires and NGK TR55 plugs (the NGK TR55's aren't high mile plugs but they do excellent on our V6's). You might want to anticipate buying new O2 sensors for the left and right header after burn in has finished. Many people have O2 sensors go bad after a header install, it's easily understandable because of higher flow in the headers, coatings inside the headers burning off and fouling the O2's, etc. etc.

Get a car on a lift, or ramps and stands. DO NOT USE JUST A JACK! If you do, you deserve whatever Darwin sends your way.

•Disconnect battery.
•Pull spark plug wires
•Disconnect starter, carefully remove and set aside with bolts (I keep them in a ziplock and write what they are with a sharpie).
•Remove spark plugs
•Figure out how far back the y-pipe on the new headers go, give yourself a little more room and cut the y-pipe off the car. If you're installing a whole new catback, it really doesn't matter. I chopped mine off in sections.
•Unbolt ball flanges to y-pipe
•Unbolt stock manifolds. If the bolt doesn't give, soak it in PB blaster some more and move to the next one.
•Remove headers taking care to not damage the metal gaskets.
•Clean surface of cylinder head with a good degreaser, brake clean or whatever. Same goes for the old gaskets. The OBX's might come with some good quality gaskets, you could use them as long as they're not paper.
•Use clean rubber/nitrile gloves if you're installing stainless headers, grease/oil will make splotches on the primaries during the burn in process. Not necessary, but I do it for that cleaner look during install.
•Spray surface of header flange and gaskets with copper gasket spray
•I keep one of the stock studs/nuts for both sides to slide the gasket and then header onto to make the install easier (I do all my wrenching alone).
•Slide gasket on over that stud, try to keep your fingers off the gasket spray.
•Start bolts by hand, not with a socket or wrench as you can cross thread and then screw yourself horribly. Do not tighten with a wrench yet!
•Attach y-pipe, finger tighten these bolts and align the merge of the y-pipe with the i-pipe or new catback.
•Tighten the header bolts from the innermost primary to the outside, that way you don't bind the gasket and have a potential for a leak later down the road.
•Tighten y-pipe bolts, thread locking compound will help on these.
•Install new spark plugs.
•Run spark plug wires be sure that the wires do not rest on the header primaries or they will melt/burn through and you'll get a nasty misfire.
•Reinstall starter.
•Reconnect battery.
•Double check all connections, make sure parts and tools are out of the way.
•Fire it up and let it idle for a few minutes, making sure everything is okay. Take it for a drive afterwards.
•If you're running an open y-pipe, you'll need to take it to an exhaust shop asap. Do not run it with open headers and no y-pipe! You're risking a fire along with the O2 sensors really do not cope with this very well and you will stall after about 10 minutes of run time.

I think that's it.

It's a real fun time wrestling mine in with only a set of ramps and stands compared to the aftermarket mid length headers:
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Here's a short writeup of advice I gave somebody else on a header install:
If you EVER want to sell those longtubes let me know! I want a pair so bad
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:47 PM   #20
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They will go up for sale whenever I get the ball rolling on fabbing up the turbo manifolds in the car. Maybe a year or so out.

I'll warn you, the brown note on this thing under load at low rpms with the headers open is enough to make you sick lol!

Usd2sing, the guy I bought these off of had that happen with a passenger that was riding along during a tuning session.

I just used earplugs.
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