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Old 05-02-2013, 07:48 PM   #1
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My tune thread

Hello all. This thread shall have all my tuning questions and other crap In it. I'm fairly new to this stuff and I know a few of you guys have some knowledge on tuning. Also for those who don't know anything, maybe some of this will intrigue you and you can learn something from it..... So as you guys know my car isn't stock...... Yet my spark table is about identical to stock. I read you want a nice smooth curve not the fricking Rocky mountains like I have. Any1 care to enlighten me on wat I should do about this . Here's a pic
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:46 PM   #2
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Smooth that shit out dood.

The jumpy timing isn't as easily felt with an auto when it isn't in lockout. With a manual trans if you have a smooth amount of timing and then a sudden jump of a few degrees as the rpm climbs, it feels like V-tech kicked in (...Yo!)

I'd even that trough out to where it is even with the rest of the peak, then lower it all a few degrees. Add it a few degrees at a time until you start to see a few degrees of KR, then drop it back. That's at least what I did on mine.
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Old 05-02-2013, 10:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarShrike View Post
Smooth that shit out dood.

The jumpy timing isn't as easily felt with an auto when it isn't in lockout. With a manual trans if you have a smooth amount of timing and then a sudden jump of a few degrees as the rpm climbs, it feels like V-tech kicked in (...Yo!)

I'd even that trough out to where it is even with the rest of the peak, then lower it all a few degrees. Add it a few degrees at a time until you start to see a few degrees of KR, then drop it back. That's at least what I did on mine.
Can I just press the smooth button lol ..... Seriously though I'm going to do as u say. I saw this and my jaw dropped. I thought pcmforless would of made it better for me.
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Old 05-02-2013, 11:44 PM   #4
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You'd be amazed at what some do when they think nobody is going to look.

The smooth function helps only so far. It can skew things a bit at times. I will manually smooth things out to where it looks good visually without anything sharp going on.
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarShrike View Post
I'd even that trough out to where it is even with the rest of the peak, then lower it all a few degrees. Add it a few degrees at a time until you start to see a few degrees of KR, then drop it back. That's at least what I did on mine.
This is exactly how I do it. Once I see KR I cut .5 to 1* of timing then run again you will eventually find the fine line between max advance and KR
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Can I just press the smooth button lol ..... Seriously though I'm going to do as u say. I saw this and my jaw dropped. I thought pcmforless would of made it better for me.
Thats a pretty shitty timing curve, but you have to remember what they do it best for bolt ons. When you get into major mods like cam, bore, stroke most people use their tunes to get the car running and on the rollers (or street) for hands on tuning
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Old 05-03-2013, 07:04 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 T/A View Post
This is exactly how I do it. Once I see KR I cut .5 to 1* of timing then run again you will eventually find the fine line between max advance and KR

Thats a pretty shitty timing curve, but you have to remember what they do it best for bolt ons. When you get into major mods like cam, bore, stroke most people use their tunes to get the car running and on the rollers (or street) for hands on tuning
Could having a bad timing curve rob hp or affect the way your car runs/performs? I'm thinking yes but just asking anyways . And ya I know. It got me running , just not that great. Once the cars back on the street I'm going to realy mess with this. Thanks for the input guys!!!

Also my LTFT are always negative ,like around -8 . My commanded Afr at running temp is like 12.7 . Negative LTFT means I'm running rich right??? Also from my understanding when you go WOT the PCM takes away fuel cuz it sees -8 and that could lean me out open throttle ? (I'm just trying to understand this stuff lol )
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:14 AM   #7
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Bad commanded timing can be related to pushing a kid in a swing (This is the best visual reference I can think of). Push too late and you get a really poor push and a kid going "Faster faster we need another master!" Push too soon and you end up getting your teeth knocked out.

Do you reset your fuel trims after you upload a new tune?
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:20 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarShrike View Post
Bad commanded timing can be related to pushing a kid in a swing (This is the best visual reference I can think of). Push too late and you get a really poor push and a kid going "Faster faster we need another master!" Push too soon and you end up getting your teeth knocked out.

Do you reset your fuel trims after you upload a new tune?
Ok gotcha so pretty much running nowhere near its full potential.

I realy haven't messed with the tune as far as fueling or anything . Just tranny settings. That being said, no I haven't reset the fuel trim.
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Old 07-08-2013, 11:38 AM   #9
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Well I have the day off today and I just started smoothing timing out. Test ran it down the road with only 1-2* of kr showing up . Which is good! Still needs a lot more done plus it runs pig rich WOT my AFR goes to like 11 wen I gun it
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:59 PM   #10
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Question for you tuning gurus, how do you control when/how much the timing advances
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhobbins View Post
Question for you tuning gurus, how do you control when/how much the timing advances
For you it's in the main and extended spark advance tables. The editable numbers is the timing. You look at the logs and see what rpm and MAP readings you have knock at and adjust the spark advance in those respective cells.
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Old 07-08-2013, 02:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94 T/A View Post

For you it's in the main and extended spark advance tables. The editable numbers is the timing. You look at the logs and see what rpm and MAP readings you have knock at and adjust the spark advance in those respective cells.
What's the best way to smooth it out?

I used the smooth section button and it did some but I want to get it smooth like this pic.
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Old 07-09-2013, 09:56 AM   #13
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Another question is that wen I'm wot I'm reallly rich and wen I'm idling I sometimes go real lean or rich . Then cruising it bounces around from. Like 14.3 to 15.4 sometimes it will hit a lean spot. How do I go about messing with this fueling?? My PCM has been tuned so idk wat it looks like compared to stock or if it was left stock? Anyone care to take a look at my commanded AFR and my PE vs time vs rpm?
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #14
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My AFR bounces around as well at idle and at cruise. It will only lock the commanded AFR at WOT. Something to do with the O2 sensors adjusting the fueling as needed and also the cycle of the engine at low/idle rpms. At least that's what a friend explained it to me.

If it is going slightly lean at cruise, it's not too much an issue unless it's causing knock.

Also, you do have the MAF sensor screen in, correct?
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:31 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarShrike View Post
My AFR bounces around as well at idle and at cruise. It will only lock the commanded AFR at WOT. Something to do with the O2 sensors adjusting the fueling as needed and also the cycle of the engine at low/idle rpms. At least that's what a friend explained it to me.

If it is going slightly lean at cruise, it's not too much an issue unless it's causing knock.

Also, you do have the MAF sensor screen in, correct?
Ok thanks for the info! And unfortunately I don't. When I first got the car I chucked it thinking it restricted airflow..... I didn't know all the benefits of having it then.
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:11 PM   #16
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Crazy how a screen could possibly cause that sorta issue. To me it sound more like a timing that is set incorrectly, or possibly overground cam. What kind of ignition are you running ?
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:24 PM   #17
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Crazy how a screen could possibly cause that sorta issue. To me it sound more like a timing that is set incorrectly, or possibly overground cam. What kind of ignition are you running ?
Timing isn't great that's for sure. It needs some work but I just don't have the know how or time just yet. I've been slowly working on this making sure I understand what I'm doing and the reaction I get. Stock ignition.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:20 PM   #18
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My AFRs always bounce around some when I do tuning. As long as it stays in a range of 1 ie. between 13.7-14.7 I'm happy at idle you can generally get the AFR pretty steady. As for WOT once you go into PE mode you the PCM commands the AFR you set it to. With your nitrous setup you may want to lower the throttle percentage that PE mode is commanded. With my T/A I have I enter PE mode at 80% throttle. At that point I am under full boost so I wanted as steady of an AFR as possible. Getting the AFR to remain pretty steady while cruising just takes time and lots of adjustments. As already mentioned it bounces around because the PCM is taking the readings from all the sensors and trying to perfect the AFR. One thing to keep in mind when you look at your logs and you are looking at the MAF or incoming air and the Fueling compared to the O2 readings the O2 readings are slightly delayed more so with LT headers as the O2 sensors are further down stream. This applies to every aspect of tuning where you are looking at O2 data in comparison to anything else.
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:06 PM   #19
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With you having the angled throttle body, I'd highly recommend getting one.

You could maybe find one that is a little larger in size on the honeycombs. You want to promote laminar flow before the maf sensor.

Honeycomb for MAF
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarShrike View Post
With you having the angled throttle body, I'd highly recommend getting one.

You could maybe find one that is a little larger in size on the honeycombs. You want to promote laminar flow before the maf sensor.

Honeycomb for MAF
Got a stock one now Installed!
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