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Old 07-19-2013, 10:13 PM   #1
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New Alt

I am going to replace my ALT. I think its not working approprietly. It seems my timing for firing is also off. my battery got drained the other day down to 3 volts. and over 2 days and a few hours each day i finally got 9 volts. craking is 6.

Also, is 150 amps good?

How do i fix my spark plug timing. I plan to replace those too.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:15 PM   #2
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Fix / replace the alternator and then see how things work.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:20 PM   #3
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Fix / replace the alternator and then see how things work.
how does this fix my issue with the firing timing being off
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:27 PM   #4
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It won't but your car also won't run worth a shit with a low/battery.
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:28 PM   #5
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It won't but your car also won't run worth a shit with a low/battery.
How could i fix this though is my question. Also, what is STOCK amps for the alt. im looking at 100-150

Possibly this

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...999%7CL3*15587
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Old 07-19-2013, 10:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo72793 View Post

How could i fix this though is my question. Also, what is STOCK amps for the alt. im looking at 100-150

Possibly this

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...999%7CL3*15587
Stock amperes for an LS1 is 102. Your ride is a ?
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Old 07-19-2013, 11:57 PM   #7
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Stock amperes for an LS1 is 102. Your ride is a ?
3800 series II v6

Also how do i fix my turn signal. it works but when turn completion it doesnt click off.
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:16 AM   #8
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3800 series II v6

Also how do i fix my turn signal. it works but when turn completion it doesnt click off.
Factory alt for your 3.8 is a 105 ampere. If you have any kind of amped audio system, you might want to get the 150 ampere one. You can have the alt and battery tested for free at most auto parts stores. Turn signal lever is broke inside steering column. My guess would need to replace the turn signal lever. Only sure way to know is to take it apart and look.
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Old 07-20-2013, 09:57 AM   #9
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I spent $150 and I got my old alt rewound into a 150, there's a shop near me that does starters and alternators but I'm in Canada so I don't know if you have shops like that
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:28 PM   #10
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I spent $150 and I got my old alt rewound into a 150, there's a shop near me that does starters and alternators but I'm in Canada so I don't know if you have shops like that
Not that I know of. Probably buy new one. I will have a capacitor for my audio
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:30 PM   #11
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Not that I know of. Probably buy new one. I will have a capacitor for my audio
U need more than just a cap for any power over 1000watts. Although i am a believer that they work, (for their claims, dimming lights) for I've done before and after testing. They are still limited to how much they help.
How much power (watts) are u running in your audio system ?
I've noticed after owning my SS for the past 6 years that the factory rated alt isn't enough to keep up with everything running at once (headlights, a/c and stereo)
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:34 PM   #12
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U need more than just a cap for any power over 1000watts. Although i am a believer that they work, (for their claims, dimming lights) for I've done before and after testing. They are still limited to how much they help.
How much power (watts) are u running in your audio system ?
I've noticed after owning my SS for the past 6 years that the factory rated alt isn't enough to keep up with everything running at once (headlights, a/c and stereo)
^^This, plus you are already buying a new alternator, might as well get the one you know is going to do what you need it to do. Usually if you have future plans and you cheap out early on you just end up spending money twice to fix the first one.

The problem you may run into with an upgraded one is the amperage at idle. Make sure at whatever your idle speed is, the alternator will kick in. If it does, make sure the output it creates at that speed is sufficient. It's not a huge deal on v6's that idle at 800-1000, but check into it.

For the reference of others reading, on the camaro's V8s(correct me if I'm wrong) usually idle around the 400-500 range. So, it's a much lower output due to low number of revolutions the alternator is making. It would suck sitting in a parking lot running your a/c and radio waiting on someone to come out of a store and your car dies and you need to get jumped.
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:36 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Chickenfloss View Post

^^This, plus you are already buying a new alternator, might as well get the one you know is going to do what you need it to do. Usually if you have future plans and you cheap out early on you just end up spending money twice to fix the first one.

The problem you may run into with an upgraded one is the amperage at idle. Make sure at whatever your idle speed is, the alternator will kick in. If it does, make sure the output it creates at that speed is sufficient. It's not a huge deal on v6's that idle at 800-1000, but check into it.

For the reference of others reading, on the camaro's V8s(correct me if I'm wrong) usually idle around the 400-500 range. So, it's a much lower output due to low number of revolutions the alternator is making. It would suck sitting in a parking lot running your a/c and radio waiting on someone to come out of a store and your car dies and you need to get jumped.
Idle for V8's is around 750 rpm. Actually, all stock motors should idle around 750 rpm.
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:44 PM   #14
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Idle for V8's is around 750 rpm. Actually, all stock motors should idle around 750 rpm.
I have the 3800 myself, warm it idles about 800. Cold 1k-1100. I wasn't sure on the lsx's and lt's. My old 350, carbed and cammed, would idle warm around 500-600 and idled smooth there.

Anyway, also wanted to throw in that higher amp alts are heavier and create more drag. So technically it can rob you of HP, but unless it's a dedicated track car or something the difference would be negligible to a daily driver. Especially one that plans to have a beefy sound system put in.
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:56 PM   #15
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Guess u should have included @ operating temperature. It normal to idle higher when cold.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:23 PM   #16
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If your car was carbed like you said, the idling at 600 was basically your choice. The carburetor has an idle set screw directly on it that you set your own idle with.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:59 PM   #17
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Quote:
Make sure at whatever your idle speed is, the alternator will kick in
Alternators don't "kick in" or out.
They just produce less amperage at lower engine RPMs.
If the engine is running, the alternator is "ON"
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:24 PM   #18
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Holy crud. So many posts. Sorry for delays. I work as a floorist installer and a sales rep. Loads of movement. I am running 780w max. No more than that. All my amps rated at is 1200 max but most I pull from it at 2 ohms bridged is 780 if that. Probably down to 450 max pull. Steve Meade is how I learned my installs. Idle usually in the morning is about 1100 then slowly goes to 800-900. Normal. But I think my throttle body is gunked up. Had it 2 out of ten times bog in drive and all my needles dropped then reset. Battery needle drops way down to 8v then gas it some it goes to 13. I think my alt isn't pushing appropriately. Wrong one for the year or model. How do I clean my throttle body and where is it located if your staring at engine from headlights.
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:56 PM   #19
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It's what the air intake connects to on the motor. Clean it with carb cleaner. Spray it, then wipe with a clean dry cloth.
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #20
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780 watts is 65 amps at 12 volts.
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