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Old 07-14-2013, 11:52 PM   #1
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Oil pressure drop at driving speed

99 V6 with 250k. So I just did an oil change today. When everything got put back together and fluids filled we ran it in the driveway for a bit to check for leaks, watch temps, etc. We turned it off and had dinner then went out to do a driving test. Got about 4 miles down the road and while driving the oil pressure gauge drops to red and acceleration didn't pull it up at all. It didn't seem to effect the running/driving (got gas and then brought it back home), but not wanting it to blow up when driving to work . Ideas as to where to start? Looking in the shop manual, there are several options, just looking for some possible experience with the issue.
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:06 AM   #2
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Could just be a sensor. I mean if driving/running isn't affected I'd bet on some sort of sensor oil pressure sensor if its what its called
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:45 AM   #3
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That will be my first go to when AZ opens this morning, and was my first thought when driving. I have had my pressure bottom out in my suburban and it wouldn't have made it down the driveway if it hadn't come back up. This one, we decided to just drive it the 3 miles back home and other than the panic over what I was going to have to rebuild when I got there , and why it was doing it, nothing else seemed off while driving

I guess I should say nothing else seemed off performance wise LOL I got plenty of work that I still need to do on her
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:22 AM   #4
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First, I literally had this happen to me. My gauge bonked out, as I was driving to work (1/4 mile) yesterday. Nearly gave me a heart attack lol. So this is possible. Also I was so confused by your name, I was a SOUS chef for awhile and I was like wtf? But now I see you are a female. And probably named sue. At 6:19 am you have successfully made me feel dumb lol
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:14 AM   #5
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What weight oil did you use?
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:59 AM   #6
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LOL Yes my name is Sue so that is part of it I am also a Pampered Chef Consultant so thus has been my handle pretty much for the last 14 years

10W30

We changed the sensor and pulled some oil out (it was a little high) and now we are the other direction It is sitting almost 3/4 up where it usually sits just to the left of 1/2 on the instrument panel.

Taking it out to get it up to temp. Not that sitting wouldn't take it too long today dang is it hot out there , but that is when it had issues yesterday so trying to repeat conditions. We drive the poor thing hard, it gets about 2k on it a month in a slow month, but I can't beat it for what it costs me in gas being that I don't owe a dime for it.

So taking it out it is still dropping pressure. It comes back slightly but was in the red too. Seems to go up slightly now with acceleration (which it didn't do last night), but every time it goes down it drops more than it picks up. Really don't want to pull the dang engine apart if I don't have to.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:19 PM   #7
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What kind of filter did you use? I only use Delco or better. I have had Fram after Fram collapse on me so never again and the bypass could be stuck if it hasn't been taken care of well...I would think this would effect idle pressure as well though, but not necessarily.

Do you have a manual pressure gauge you can test with? This would be my next test as the new one could technically be faulty as well. I am assuming since you had to lose some oil you didn't double gasket the filter.

It could even be the needle on the gauge cluster causing the problem. After heating up slight warping can occur and as a result cracked/aged solder may create a grounding issue. I think your best bet is to hook a mechanical gauge up to know for sure it's losing it's oil pressure. If you still have low pressure possibly check oil pickup screen, it could be clogged. It also gives you an excuse to fix leaky pan gaskets :P
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:50 PM   #8
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Quote:
didn't double gasket the filter.

Huh, you can't double gasket a spin on filter.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NavyVet View Post
Huh, you can't double gasket a spin on filter.
OHHH I beg to differ good sir! I had this guy I worked with in an oil shop do it on one of the new dodge challengers and company bought him a new motor. When they are put on way too tight and you screw them off the ring gets stuck on the filter adapter. If you don't clean the mating surface like you are supposed to and without paying attention screw the new one down. Bam, you are out of a motor 20 miles later. I have personally never done it, but I have in fact seen it happen haha.

**EDIT** now that I think about it, I guess you are right. It's double ringed?
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Old 07-17-2013, 10:58 AM   #10
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Sounds like the motor is on its way out. With 250k miles on it, I bet the main bearings finally wore out. It takes impeccable maintenance and gentle driving from brand new to get a stock 4th gen F-body motor to last past 250k IMO. I know the 98+ V8 motor components are spec'd to last about 150k miles under normal maintenance/driving conditions, not sure what the V6 specs are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chickenfloss View Post
OHHH I beg to differ good sir! I had this guy I worked with in an oil shop do it on one of the new dodge challengers and company bought him a new motor. When they are put on way too tight and you screw them off the ring gets stuck on the filter adapter. If you don't clean the mating surface like you are supposed to and without paying attention screw the new one down. Bam, you are out of a motor 20 miles later. I have personally never done it, but I have in fact seen it happen haha.

**EDIT** now that I think about it, I guess you are right. It's double ringed?
I consider the ring a gasket, so in my mind you are correct.
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:03 AM   #11
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I've used STP's the last couple of changes. I tend to stay away from FRAM now, it was the filter we were using when we had to tear it down and put it back together 5 yrs ago.
Don't have a manual gauge but looking at getting one. Wondering if maybe the pressure relief valve/spring are sticking? I've been looking over our extra 3800 in the garage and noticed that one was "sticky". Can't quite figure why when it starts all seems to go well but as soon as you drive it around a bit it just starts tanking and can't get it back. I think your right though it may be time to get going and finish the rebuild on the one in the garage.
Thankfully we had a friend loan us their G6 for the week so we can spend a little more time looking into it now. Any and all ideas are welcome and being looked at so if you see think of something shout it out
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UPDATE: We checked the pressure relief valve/spring and everything appeared to be ok there. We put on a mechanical gauge pressure is about 70 starting from cold. Bringing up to running temp driving it dropped to about 15 after going 10 miles of stop and start driving (that is it's daily torture on the freeway and we want to make sure that it would survive). Back it the driveway we turned it off checked the oil level and started it back up pressure was 40-45. To me the next logical problem because pressure come back so fast is the pick up screen being clogged as chickenfloss has mentioned earlier.
I have heard that it is possible to drop the oil pan with out picking the engine.... has anyone here done this?? If I don't have to pick it I don't want to
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:30 PM   #12
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Old 07-23-2013, 08:49 PM   #13
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You can slightly raise the engine using a block of wood under the oil pans then release the motor mounts and lift it further to gain access to the pan. I held my engine up using a jack stand under the damper to remove my pan
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Old 08-05-2013, 08:10 AM   #14
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So it took a little longer than I thought to finish this job, as I only ended up with a few hours a day every couple of days to work on it.
And the winner is....... The pick-up screen!! Once we pulled everything and inspected the screen it was filled with sludge. I had to dig for a bit with my nail to even see any of the mesh and it was clogged up the edge inside all the way around too. We replaced it and the gasket and took it for a test run and it was beautiful to was that gauge hold steady!
I ended up raising and releasing the engine and dropping the axle to get the clearance access I needed to remove the oil pan and know I was going to be able to get the seal back on right. It was a pain, but $80 in parts was for sure better than a new car payment! Now how much further past 250k we get? Hopefully at least that much longer! Thanks guys!!
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