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Old 04-24-2013, 06:33 PM   #1
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10.XX second LS1 build?

I already have an LS1 swapped into my 95 Z/28. I just recently bought another LS1 to build. I was curious as to if I could get high 10s out of an LS1 on 93 octane pump gas with full interior? I'm really looking for a N/A LS1 build with LOTS of power that is also going to be streetable and reliable. It's not going to be a daily so I'm not really at all concerned with mpg or anything. Help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:29 PM   #2
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Well IMHO it's not woth it to swap an LT1 for an LS1 then buy another ls1 to build. For that kind of money you could be making tons of power from an LT1.

But since you already swapped it. Yeah it's possible not easy. Once you get under 11.40 I believe you have to have a roll bar which adds weight but it is possible to rock a full cage with the entire factory interior.

To make the power needed to get into the 10s with a car over factory curb weight takes some effort but your going to need a new rear end with at least 4.10 gears, built 4L80e Trans or a power glide since the car isn't going to be a DD, the motor will have to be bored, new heads Id recommend Brodix or AFR and a big *** cam. Your best bet for a cam is going to get a custom grind for your application.

Some of the other small stuff you will have to do is upgrades to the fuel system; pump, injectors, fuel pressure regulator.

I probably forgot something here but others will fill it in.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:49 PM   #3
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A big shot of nitrous would help alot
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:38 PM   #4
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I would like to stay away from nitrous just because I would be going to the strip too often and won't use it to much. I would honestly be happy with +450 rwhp even if it didn't run high 10s. How difficult would that be to accomplish with an LS1/T-56?
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:53 PM   #5
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A heads and cam ls1 will hit 450rwhp easy. It would run more like low 12s though
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Old 04-24-2013, 10:00 PM   #6
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Any good head/cam combo you would recomend for big power?
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Old 04-24-2013, 11:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhobbins View Post
A heads and cam ls1 will hit 450rwhp easy. It would run more like low 12s though
Not easy....but it is done.
Depends on what is wanted out of the car. Driveable? Bucking? M6 or A4?
MANY, MANY variables
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:45 AM   #8
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M6 and driveable would be nice, like I said, I wouldn't be going to the track too much but Im just trying to build something with a good ammount of power that is fun to drive
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:35 PM   #9
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Building a car that runs 10s just to have "a good amount of power" is like using a chainsaw to cut a steak.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:47 PM   #10
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Building a car that runs 10s just to have "a good amount of power" is like using a chainsaw to cut a steak.
Hahaha agreed, but it's not just that I want the power. I've been wanting to build a 10 second street car for a while now.
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:50 PM   #11
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Old 04-25-2013, 10:52 PM   #12
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FI will help you keep it streetable, but get ready to drop some serious money
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Old 04-25-2013, 11:44 PM   #13
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A heads and cam ls1 will hit 450rwhp easy. It would run more like low 12s though
Maybe with a T56

OP, if you just want to break into the 10s, you do not need to bore the motor and drop a forged rotating assembly in it. You're more than likely going to need to look into forced induction though. A used P1SC Procharger kit could definitely get you into the 10s with maybe 8-10 PSI with a cam, supporting valvetrain mods and some 317 heads. With your T56 , you should probably replace the rear and driveshaft though, you'll destroy it with that transmission.
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Old 05-01-2013, 11:09 AM   #14
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Maybe with a T56

OP, if you just want to break into the 10s, you do not need to bore the motor and drop a forged rotating assembly in it. You're more than likely going to need to look into forced induction though. A used P1SC Procharger kit could definitely get you into the 10s with maybe 8-10 PSI with a cam, supporting valvetrain mods and some 317 heads. With your T56 , you should probably replace the rear and driveshaft though, you'll destroy it with that transmission.
^ this
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:50 PM   #15
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I will be track ready in the next few weeks and I will post how I do to give you an idea of what a big cam can do with a 9in rear. I am very curious to see how it goes myself. Go the F/I route. You can have a car that drives like stock until you gas it. But that's dependent on your budget which will always end up being higher than you plan on spending.
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Old 05-01-2013, 09:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOLatyourStang View Post
I would like to stay away from nitrous just because I would be going to the strip too often and won't use it to much. I would honestly be happy with +450 rwhp even if it didn't run high 10s. How difficult would that be to accomplish with an LS1/T-56?
I have all bolt-ons and MS3 Cam, no heads, no porting, nothing like that, and I make 410rwhp with T56 and 4.10 gears. Heads and porting should hit your numbers.
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Old 05-02-2013, 02:36 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by brett777 View Post

I have all bolt-ons and MS3 Cam, no heads, no porting, nothing like that, and I make 410rwhp with T56 and 4.10 gears. Heads and porting should hit your numbers.
Don't mean to thread jack...... But I'm Looking to cam my LS1 soon. How streetable is that cam? And how's the idle? Love a loping idle !! :-D any video's ?
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Old 05-02-2013, 03:38 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Don't mean to thread jack...... But I'm Looking to cam my LS1 soon. How streetable is that cam? And how's the idle? Love a loping idle !! :-D any video's ?
He has a nice build thread on it with tons of vids, Brent's trans an or something like that
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Old 05-02-2013, 04:31 PM   #19
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Don't mean to thread jack...... But I'm Looking to cam my LS1 soon. How streetable is that cam? And how's the idle? Love a loping idle !! :-D any video's ?
You can private message me some questions if you would like. I had the shop boost the idle to 1000rpms because the loping is so ridiculous, even though it's set at 1000, it idles between 850-950. The only issue I see, which I believe would answer the 'streetability' question, is you have to give it just enough gas, or it wants to die. Same thing when starting, feathering the gas pedal a few seconds until the idle catches, but once it's idling, as long as you keep giving it enough throttle, it's happy. Also you have to keep RPMs above 1500 or else it bucks like no tomorrow, not really hard with 4.10s though. On highways, I lock 6th in at 80mph and I'm at 2000rpms, moving like a jet, it's pretty cool. Gas mileage is around 15mpg with a healthy mix of highway/having fun on the streets. Private message me any other questions.
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:49 PM   #20
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You can private message me some questions if you would like. I had the shop boost the idle to 1000rpms because the loping is so ridiculous, even though it's set at 1000, it idles between 850-950. The only issue I see, which I believe would answer the 'streetability' question, is you have to give it just enough gas, or it wants to die. Same thing when starting, feathering the gas pedal a few seconds until the idle catches, but once it's idling, as long as you keep giving it enough throttle, it's happy. Also you have to keep RPMs above 1500 or else it bucks like no tomorrow, not really hard with 4.10s though. On highways, I lock 6th in at 80mph and I'm at 2000rpms, moving like a jet, it's pretty cool. Gas mileage is around 15mpg with a healthy mix of highway/having fun on the streets. Private message me any other questions.
A good tune can alleviate several of those issues you are having. Just a heads up.
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