So here is the story with my problem...it's a '01 Camaro 3.8 manual trans
My catalytic converter was taken out because it got clogged and I just put on a pipe there and I had an O2 sim for the sensor that is after the catalytic converter, probably about 7 years ago. Afterwards, I decided to put on Pacesetter headers...I replaced the stock headers and had no problems whatsoever, no codes or anything, O2s worked fine...
Recently, I bought a new muffler, a Walker QuietFlowSS and put that on the car, and I also decided to buy a new Walker catalytic converter to put on the car. In the meantime before all of that, I had gotten a code P0134 I believe it was, so I also bought a new Bosch sensor for the driver's side manifold sensor. I replaced that sensor, installed the new catalytic converter and hooked the sensor back up to its wires, removing the O2 sim from the post catalytic sensor.
After that, I am getting 3 codes now, a P0137, P1133 and P1153. Also, I noticed that I was getting this sort of a stumble when the car would get warm and I would put it into first gear to get going. That was when I had the code P0134 for that driver's side manifold O2 sensor.
What could be the problem? I replaced everything and I thought my issues would be fixed but they still exist. I checked online and some people are saying that P1133 and P1153 come on after putting on Pacesetter headers but I did not have them before when I put the headers on and that was maybe 3-4 years ago. I can also smell fuel from the exhaust and I am getting really bad fuel economy.
It's a 5 speed 3.8 V6. In any case, wires look fine in regards to that p0137 code..I even changed sensors, I put in a brand new Bosch o2 sensor after the catalytic converter and I still got the p0137. Could this code be causing the other two p1133 and p1153?
I've got an update...after they rewelded the exhaust really well, no leaks at all, car runs beautifully now and now I have lost the p1133 and p1153 codes...only p0137 is on now..any ideas? How can I check the wires and everything? I checked the eng sensor fuse and it looks good.
Also, for anyone out there that is having problems with P1133 and P1153, the way I fixed them is sealing all exhaust leaks and I added a 150ml fuel and injector cleaning solution from Wurth, a German company I believe. That may have helped out in cleaning everything.
For some reason, my car has been running a little hotter than usual lately. I would suppose the fans are working properly, what is the best way of checking?
I think that I was stomping it when I got the code.
About the heat..could a certain type of engine oil be the cause? I am using 5w30 Liqui Moly oil. And this diagnostic was done in 36 C degrees weather.. should I maybe use 10w30?
He was at WOT when he pulled that info. The tps is at 100%. The fuel trims are pretty good since at wot the stft(short term fuel trims) went to 0. Looks to be running a hair lean, but still in a pretty safe area. The lean is probably due to adding headers so its breathing much better.
If the DTC you're getting Then it takes the snap shot is the P0137 then I would say you have a wiring issue to that sensor.
High resistance or open circuit.
P0137 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) circuit low voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
The PCM is not reading the proper voltage
If the DTC you're getting Then it takes the snap shot is the P0137 then I would say you have a wiring issue to that sensor.
High resistance or open circuit.
P0137 Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) circuit low voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2
The PCM is not reading the proper voltage
How would I be able to check on that? Is there any tests that can be done at the o2 sensor plug? All I know is that it comes out of a harness which is above the transmission.
Since it seems to be intermittent, I would inspect the wiring harness for bare spots that could be rubbing against the body or transmission, make sure the connector is clean and well connected and not loose.
On a side note, I was doing a little welding inside the door to fix a rattle for the window and I took the battery clamps off, naturally. There was a lot of crap around the clamps so I cleaned them up really well and everything, put them back on and after driving about 40km, I still do not have the DTC and I notice everything runs better, in the electrical sense. Could dirty battery clamps been the problem?
This I remember one Comcast van I worked on it wouldn't start or anything so I check the battery clamps they were so dirty and had battery acid and corrosion on them so I replaced them and it started right up
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