I figured I’d make a post for anyone who was curious about doing this mod. Underdrive pulleys work by slowing the rate of the accessories and reducing rotational mass (they are significantly lighter). This allows more of the engines power to go to the rear wheels. ZZP claims 3rwhp at 6,000 RPM for the 14% reduction water pump pullley on a stock engine and slightly more on a modified setup. It doesn’t claim a gain for the 10% reduction alternator pulley. I got both the water pump and alternator pulleys. I’m guessing I might have gained between 5-10 hp since its a bolt on/tuned car. If you only get one of the pulleys, you can use a stock sized belt. If you get both like I did, you’ll need a size 150 belt.
Buck for buck, no other modification can match the efficiency than that of headers. Aftermarket headers are designed for maximum airflow and power. As you know, there are manifolds already bolted to the heads from the factory. They are very restrictive due to strict pollution control laws. Cat-back exhaust systems effortlessly compliment headers. When teamed together, they are a winning combination.
Here’s a write up of my 4.10 ring and pinion gear, and gov. locker install
After a little bit of reading it seems that most people tend to leave installing a ring and pinion gear to the professionals. If you can afford it then this is probably the best way to go. But it’s not impossible to do this install yourself although it does require patience and a few expensive tools which I will cover as we go.
I did this install using Brent Franker’s install guide found on his website here:
I cannot thank Mr. Franker enough for the help he’s offered to so many, not to mention the vast amount of money he’s saved so many of us bird owner’s from costly repairs that can be remedied by easy fixes like this one.
The purpose of this article is not to take away from Brent’s page, but to add some pictures to help guide fellow enthusiasts with 1998+ Firebirds/Trans Ams.
In the following picture I’ve removed the 3 screws holding the headlight shroud (black plastic). I manually raised the headlight using the manual raise knob located directly behind the headlight, covered by a rubber grommet.
This next picture shows just under he headlight, near the headlight motor. I believe it’s a 8mm nut holding the raise/lower arm to the motor shaft. Not hard to remove, a little cramped, but no biggy.
As stated in Mr. Franker’s page, the arm tends to rust to the shaft. A little difficult to separate since it’s so cramped, but if you’ve got some WD-40 or equivalent, it should help the process. I wound up just using the handle of my ratchet, and a screwdriver to pry them apart.
Once separated, you can continue on with Brent’s directions of manually rotating the motor. Be sure and line up the arm correctly (pay close attention as to how it bends and is positioned prior to removing.
Install is opposite of removal. Easy fix!
Wet sanding is a method of sanding that can be used to make rough surfaces have a smooth mirror-like shine. In this case it is paint on your car.
This method can be used if you’ve recently repaired damage to your paint, put clear coat on or simply want to remove that ugly factory orange peal.
How to: Change a 4th Gen F-Body Transmission Mount (V6)
Why Do This?:
If you’ve noticed any abnormal shaking, vibration, thumping, or even grinding coming from your console area (especially suddenly) whether you have a manual or automatic there’s a good chance it is being caused by a bad transmission mount – replacing an old mount is much cheaper than replacing a transmission where the gears have been eaten off from excessive vibration or improper angle between engine/transmission/driveshaft.
A few years ago I read that you can add a switch to the power antenna circuit to control whether or not the antenna goes up and down when the factory stereo is turned on. I was working on my aftermarket power antenna because the mount was loose and figured that particular day would be a good day to add the manual control switch.
You’ll need the following…
If your car’s headliner has been hanging down, like mine, it’s time to replace it.
Total cost was $23 for the headliner at JoAnn’s Fabrics and $17 for an 18oz can of the adhesive. One can will do a hardtop car and a T-top car or 3 T-top cars.
What you’ll need:
- Headliner Material (4.5ft)
- Spray Adhesive (18oz)
- Flat head Screwdriver
- Phillips Screwdriver
- Medium-bristled Scrub brush
Elapsed time ~ 3hrs.
Are your T-Top latches binding, or getting so stiff you feel like they are going to break the next time you go to use them?
Could they use some lubricating, but unsure on how to tear it apart to do so?
Here’s a guide to assist you.
What you’ll need:
- Flat Head Screw Driver
- Phillips Head Screw Driver
- Xtra-life Disc and Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease
- Old Tooth Brush
Estimated time for completion: ~30minutes- 1 hour
Good news for what many already know. The Camaro has been a huge success so far for GM, Chevrolet, and I’d argue even the competition. Edmunds.com has just awarded the 2010 Camaro the “Launch Breakthrough Award” Read More