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Old 04-21-2016, 07:20 PM   #41
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Harlock - 1998 Chevy Camaro 3.8 V6

I have a white overlay on mine

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Old 04-21-2016, 08:22 PM   #42
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The only problem is, on my Camaro, the oil pressure gauge goes up to 120, not 80...do they account for that when you purchase it? Like, do you add your make, model, engine and year and make sure the gauges all match? I only saw the 0-80 marks on the examples.
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Old 05-04-2016, 11:31 AM   #43
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Shiny! Harlock got a good buffing today. Dad cleaned up the wheels as well. The one in the photo below was the worst one.

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Old 05-04-2016, 02:27 PM   #44
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Looks really good


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Old 05-04-2016, 02:31 PM   #45
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Old 05-06-2016, 09:08 AM   #46
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Had an idea about the sound coming from the right rear wheel area. Was talking to dad yesterday and he reminded me about the brake hoses we did on the front. He said maybe the brake hoses or line might be causing the rear caliper(s) to seize and that might be causing the sound. It's like a sort of high-pitched vibration or scraping sound. Dad is having it looked at today and most likely replaced. The brakes are still a little touchy so that may very well fix that issue too. It got a bit better when we did the front brake hoses.
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:11 PM   #47
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Getting ATF filter and brake hoses done today.



I don't know what I'd do without my dad keeping an eye on my cars...
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Old 05-14-2016, 11:05 PM   #48
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Car suddenly started running like s&#t today after trying to move it and the battery was dead. Only headed to the gas station and back, and it was sputtering and misfiring terribly. Was really scared the motor was going to blow. Got it home, opened the hood and saw this:



Plug wire was laying on the exhaust...again...One AutoZone trip later, a new plug wire and a zip tie:



Aaaaand everything's fine with the engine again. Intermittent blinking SES code came on for a misfire on cylinder 1. Also still has the EVAP and transmission component slip codes.

Turns out the mid pipe isn't the correct one (something wrong with the exhaust? NO WAY!), so I have a new, correct one on its way (I'm hoping may solve the EVAP issue), as well as a new headlamp switch so my car's flipping gauges will come on. Getting the right rear wheel bearing replaced next week as well. Dad is having that done at the dealership.

I'm trying the best I can, but this car is starting to wear on my nerves...
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:23 AM   #49
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You are lucky you have the resources you have to get these problems fixed. From what you have mentioned about the history of your car there have been many previous owners who have done who knows what to it. Hopefully you get all the little gremlins fixed soon and can enjoy your Camaro soon 👍
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Old 05-15-2016, 05:42 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundown View Post
You are lucky you have the resources you have to get these problems fixed. From what you have mentioned about the history of your car there have been many previous owners who have done who knows what to it. Hopefully you get all the little gremlins fixed soon and can enjoy your Camaro soon 👍
I am very lucky. I'm so grateful to have my dad around to help me out with this thing.

I think we've just about found all of the "gremlins" in the car. I really want to get this "transmission component slippage" thing resolved; that's the big one. Though I don't think it's actually a transmission component...we'll see.
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Old 05-16-2016, 10:44 AM   #51
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Today I got the center console apart and unplugged the brake shift interlock solenoid. Turns out the thing never worked in the first place. It could be shifted without the brake pedal being touched this whole time. I never tried it because I'm not an idiot and never try to move the lever without pressing the brake...so dad is getting one ordered in. Maybe that's why it's a bitch to shift out of park...it also seems the little arm coming from the solenoid is a little slack and I think that might be causing the button on the shifter to lock up. I lifted up on it a little and that seemed to relieve some pressure or tension on the button. I guess we'll see what happens with the new one. It's not an expensive part.

Still shifts kinda hard into drive and a little bit in reverse. But dad's makes the same sound in reverse so it seems almost normal. I think it's a lot better than it was before now that I played with it a lot today (shifting it from park/drive/reverse over and over to test it). I'm going to do more ATF and filter drains and refills every couple hundred miles and see if the shifting improves...dad seems to think it might get better if we do that.
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Old 05-16-2016, 08:04 PM   #52
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My wife's honda gave her some trouble a while back over the switch that lets you shift out of park. She calls me to complain. I told her to put the little knife in slot by the shift to release the lock. Does your Camaro have one of those slots next to the shift? This also happened to my niece. Toyota corolla. Her car would not go in any gear. Turns out the brake pedal had a little rubber plug that fell out due to old age. It was the do dad that pressed against the switch to release the shift. I put a plastic bumper push pin in place and sent her down the road. Later her Shifter came undone at the console. The shitty plastic part was 35.00 and had to wait 2 weeks to get. I said F it I drilled a hole through the stud on the shift linkage and shimmed with a flat washer on both sides put a cotter pin in and fixed it.
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Old 06-16-2016, 11:23 AM   #53
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Just posting this here from the problem thread I have about the issue: https://www.camarozone.com/forum/f18/...tml#post655534

Did some more digging on the 4L60E transmission.

30 Common 4L60E Transmission Problems & Repair | Charlotte NC

1-2 shift does not happen at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise.

Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Fix as soon as possible or hard parts will eventually break.

Trans not shifting into 2nd unless your off the gas help?? - Chevy Impala SS Forum

"So I think what you are saying is that you are pulling out in first and moving along and it won't shift into 2nd until you back off on the throttle. Then it shifts up into 2nd and 3rd and 4th and lockup as expected.

Shifting in the 4L60E transmission is controlled by the PCM computer. Yes, speed and throttle position are key inputs, but there are other factors as well ... though none would tend to try and keep the transmission in first when second is called for. The transmission does not go into second on it's own .. it must be told to shift by the PCM.

I would start with the data port and watch the shift solenoid commands from the PCM to the transmission. Drive along and watch the value of the 1-2 shift solenoid (on first, off second). If the computer says "shift into 2nd" and the car stays in first ... something is wrong inside the 4L60E. If the PCM does not say "shift into 2nd" until you let off the gas ... something is wrong outside the transmission (TPS, Speed sensor, etc). Actually the speed sensor is inside the 4L60E, but you get the idea.

Don't spend a lot of time diagnosing this till you are sure the PCM wants the car in 2nd and the signal is being ignored or not by the transmission."

What I take away from this info is I need to have my father take it up to the shop, have them check the PCM commands and see what it is or isn't telling the transmission, to determine what parts to start throwing at it to fix this stupid problem!

I have asked my dad to have these issues looked at, as well as filling back up with green coolant. I live in NEPA so the winters get a might chilly, and I have read that green is a little better in the cold than orange; I think it might be best to keep it that way. I don't wanna risk adding orange and having any green left over in there somewhere...the green that came out was pretty okay looking, besides the stop leak that was in there with it
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:07 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlock View Post
Just posting this here from the problem thread I have about the issue: https://www.camarozone.com/forum/f18/...tml#post655534



Did some more digging on the 4L60E transmission.



30 Common 4L60E Transmission Problems & Repair | Charlotte NC



1-2 shift does not happen at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) until you let off the gas: Best case: try replacing the TPS. Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Double check by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. Worst case: poor line pressure rise.



Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Fix as soon as possible or hard parts will eventually break.



Trans not shifting into 2nd unless your off the gas help?? - Chevy Impala SS Forum



"So I think what you are saying is that you are pulling out in first and moving along and it won't shift into 2nd until you back off on the throttle. Then it shifts up into 2nd and 3rd and 4th and lockup as expected.



Shifting in the 4L60E transmission is controlled by the PCM computer. Yes, speed and throttle position are key inputs, but there are other factors as well ... though none would tend to try and keep the transmission in first when second is called for. The transmission does not go into second on it's own .. it must be told to shift by the PCM.



I would start with the data port and watch the shift solenoid commands from the PCM to the transmission. Drive along and watch the value of the 1-2 shift solenoid (on first, off second). If the computer says "shift into 2nd" and the car stays in first ... something is wrong inside the 4L60E. If the PCM does not say "shift into 2nd" until you let off the gas ... something is wrong outside the transmission (TPS, Speed sensor, etc). Actually the speed sensor is inside the 4L60E, but you get the idea.



Don't spend a lot of time diagnosing this till you are sure the PCM wants the car in 2nd and the signal is being ignored or not by the transmission."



What I take away from this info is I need to have my father take it up to the shop, have them check the PCM commands and see what it is or isn't telling the transmission, to determine what parts to start throwing at it to fix this stupid problem!



I have asked my dad to have these issues looked at, as well as filling back up with green coolant. I live in NEPA so the winters get a might chilly, and I have read that green is a little better in the cold than orange; I think it might be best to keep it that way. I don't wanna risk adding orange and having any green left over in there somewhere...the green that came out was pretty okay looking, besides the stop leak that was in there with it

Speak of NEPA - I'm there now visiting friends. 😎👍


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Old 06-30-2016, 08:17 AM   #55
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While I have the cluster unscrewed and removable I'm going to be ordering some green LEDs for the gauge cluster lighting, now that I know it works with LEDs installed. I might have my vinyl guy cut me a little "Harlock" decal to apply near the top edge of the cluster, just because. Just gotta find a 90's looking font

I had some possible financial hindrances that turned out okay, so I may have my dad take Harlock in for the TPS/EPC/1-2 accumulator. He was weary about taking it in there to get it done, because if he did he would want one of the senior techs that know their transmissions well to work on it, and his discount would come out to about 30/hr instead of 15/hr for labor. But even then that's still not as much as regular shop labor you see around here which is like 75/hr...

Read this also:

"I now understand the firm 1-2 shift too - once the PCM sets the 1870 code (TCC is slipping), it sets maximum line pressure which results in harsh shifts."

Which is where my book was trying to lead me, to the TCC.

I looked at this kit: Sonnax Sure Cure Kit

The TCC valve parts require a special tool to replace with the ones in this kit (a reamer to bore out a bigger hole), so I would have to get that done at a shop. The dealership would probably have a specific tool like that, I'd hope.

About $200 for the kit and I'm guessing maybe $150 for labor, versus about $1500-2000 for a replacement transmission...
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Old 08-17-2016, 06:00 PM   #56
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Update:

The k-member seems to have been hit with a great amount of force. The one brake line is almost crimped shut in it, which explains why the brake pedal only goes down about an inch before the car stops. The history report said it had been hit in the front, but not that the damned k-member was wrecked. Also, the EGR valve is broken and being held in place by a hose clamp.

This car should have been totaled. Like, 7 owners ago.

The car was stalling and dying this morning as my dad drove it to work. After replacing the fuel filter it's not stalling, but now it's misfiring at highway speed. We're going to have a new EGR put on it and see if that solves the misfire issue. The code is for cylinder 1.
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Old 08-21-2016, 10:13 AM   #57
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Define hose clamp for egr and might want to do consider egr delete.
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Old 10-06-2016, 12:07 PM   #58
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Biiiig update.

09-11-2016
$24 well spent. EBay comes through again with a used, OEM, cleaned and tested part. Replaced MAF sensor and the engine is no longer kicking, stalling, idling roughly or any adverse conditions or codes. Purrs like a kitten now.

09-30-2016
Guy at the shop says the valve body housing should be replaced. So I'm gonna get a new GM one and a Sonnax kit for the valves and such.

10-03-2016
I have ordered a rebuilt GM 4L60E valve body upgraded with the above-mentioned Sonnax kit. It comes with a one-year warranty. $250 shipped. Should arrive by Tuesday. My dad and a master GM tech where he works is going to install it on Harlock for no charge.
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Old 10-15-2016, 07:30 PM   #59
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Green gauges, yay!



Dad has been super busy and hasn't gotten to the valve body yet. I'll update when it's installed.

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Old 10-15-2016, 08:23 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlock View Post
Green gauges, yay!



Dad has been super busy and hasn't gotten to the valve body yet. I'll update when it's installed.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Looks good!!


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