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Old 07-06-2017, 12:51 PM   #81
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I'll check what for brands of motor mounts are available to me, thanks for the recommendation. I have heard of Energy Suspension too.

They can order GM gaskets, I had them order a GM gas cap for it so that won't be an issue. Sometimes OEM is the only way to go. I know on my Honda, a lot of parts are best left to OEM, like timing belts/gaskets/o-rings/fluids.
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Old 07-11-2017, 12:53 PM   #82
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Ordered a set of used OEM sway bars. 30mm front/19mm rear. $79 shipped. Gonna try and get the headers and other stuff ordered today as well.
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:10 PM   #83
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Which headers?

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Old 07-20-2017, 05:29 PM   #84
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I got a set of Pace Setter headers. Just came in this afternoon, it's getting dropped off at the shop tomorrow morning to get everything installed.

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Old 08-09-2017, 07:20 PM   #85
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Just got off the phone with the shop. Guy asked me if I was sitting down, haha.

He went through with me what all they did:
header installation
catalytic converter and o2 sensor replacement (aftermarket; said converter was completely clogged/sensors were shot and also did not mate up properly with new headers)
sway bar and bushing install
inspect engine for leaks cleaned up oil pan area, tightened bolts; check after driving for new leaks)
inspect seals (t-top seals are starting to fail which I knew)
inspect motor mounts (good)
inspect u-joints (good)

Which came to a grand total of $961, including parts and 6 hours labor. Honestly I'm not sore about the cat and sensors, it was literally the only piece of the exhaust system that hasn't been outright replaced. Eventually, I would have replaced it if it was really as bad as they say (I'm inclined to believe them, it was most likely the OEM, 19 year old cat and sensors they replaced) And if they charged about $75/hr for labor, the parts came out to about $511 for a new cat and two new o2 sensors. I will have a paper copy of the bill when I go get the car so I'll see what it actually came out to. But honestly that's not bad for how much stuff this car has been through.

Without purchase and tax/title stuff, I have spent $3,858 on this car so far, out of a $5,000 budget I set for it.
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Old 08-15-2017, 07:53 AM   #86
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SES light came on when I was driving to work this morning, haha.

Stored code: P0133 o2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 1
Pending codes: P0440 evaporative emission system, P0133 o2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 1

I'm guessing the new exhaust/cat is causing both of these. The o2 sensors are brand new and have been in there for less than 150 miles so I don't think the sensor itself is shot. My dad's Z28 throws this code too even after replacing the sensors, and that car also has an aftermarket exhaust.

I also have three concerns when driving the car now:
-the car will start to rumble or vibrate at random after driving on the highway for a while, then go away, then come back (it almost feels like a flat spot in a tire but it's not constant). It isn't jarring but it is noticeable.
Google says it could be the "natural resonance" of the car (lots of f-body owners complaining of this exact issue), loose lugs, driveshaft that's got loose u-joint or is too short (I have a stock one in there so I don't think it's that, and I had them check the u-joint), motor/trans mounts (shop says they were fine). Apparently no one has died or experienced catastrophic failure from this yet, so it might just be something I have to live with.

-whenever I go over a bump or hump in the road, the front of the car wants to [very slightly] dart right and then left. It also wants to pull to the left a little if I let of the wheel. I think this might be from the new sway bars being tighter.
I did a quick Google search and it the culprit seems to usually be the panhard bar (those are only in the rear, right? I don't think it's that), shocks or under-inflated tires. I will check the tire pressure today, and I'll see about the shocks. We did replace the shocks in the back (and sway bars), but I don't think we did the front. Which may explain the front doing it. But this moving from side to side thing is new.

-sometimes when turning, usually from a stop, it feels like something is grinding when I turn the steering wheel moderately to the left or right.
Google says it is probably low power steering fluid (which probably means a leak as well)...hmm. Will have to check that.

The speakers are also cutting in and out over bumps, and there is a whining noise that is tied to the accelerator somehow (the whine increases the more you push on the gas pedal). I think that's caused by a ground loop but I don't know where to start troubleshooting on that.
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Old 08-15-2017, 05:59 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlock View Post
SES light came on when I was driving to work this morning, haha.

Stored code: P0133 o2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 1
Pending codes: P0440 evaporative emission system, P0133 o2 sensor circuit slow response bank 1 sensor 1

I'm guessing the new exhaust/cat is causing both of these. The o2 sensors are brand new and have been in there for less than 150 miles so I don't think the sensor itself is shot. My dad's Z28 throws this code too even after replacing the sensors, and that car also has an aftermarket exhaust.

I also have three concerns when driving the car now:
-the car will start to rumble or vibrate at random after driving on the highway for a while, then go away, then come back (it almost feels like a flat spot in a tire but it's not constant). It isn't jarring but it is noticeable.
Google says it could be the "natural resonance" of the car (lots of f-body owners complaining of this exact issue), loose lugs, driveshaft that's got loose u-joint or is too short (I have a stock one in there so I don't think it's that, and I had them check the u-joint), motor/trans mounts (shop says they were fine). Apparently no one has died or experienced catastrophic failure from this yet, so it might just be something I have to live with.

-whenever I go over a bump or hump in the road, the front of the car wants to [very slightly] dart right and then left. It also wants to pull to the left a little if I let of the wheel. I think this might be from the new sway bars being tighter.
I did a quick Google search and it the culprit seems to usually be the panhard bar (those are only in the rear, right? I don't think it's that), shocks or under-inflated tires. I will check the tire pressure today, and I'll see about the shocks. We did replace the shocks in the back (and sway bars), but I don't think we did the front. Which may explain the front doing it. But this moving from side to side thing is new.

-sometimes when turning, usually from a stop, it feels like something is grinding when I turn the steering wheel moderately to the left or right.
Google says it is probably low power steering fluid (which probably means a leak as well)...hmm. Will have to check that.

The speakers are also cutting in and out over bumps, and there is a whining noise that is tied to the accelerator somehow (the whine increases the more you push on the gas pedal). I think that's caused by a ground loop but I don't know where to start troubleshooting on that.
Yes, to answer the last issue, sounds exactly like a ground loop issue. This is caused by a bad ground wire. Usually after adding an amplifier though. Factory ground wire connection on the back of the head unit should not cause this. As long as even after adding an after market head unit, just make sure you use the factory ground to ground the head unit.

Ground loop noise is cause by using "multiple" grounding points. OR.......... just a bad ground...... meaning ground wire or grounding point.

Using the factory ground wire for the head unit and grounding amplifiers to same ground point "should" keep ground loop to a minimum.

As far as the rest of the issues. Unfortunately after market exhaust components can cause an SES light issue.

Yes, the panhard bar (track bar) is only in the rear.

Yes, the steering issue "could" be the sway bar.

Low power steering fluid, depends on the "grinding" noise. Power steering pump will not "grind" when fluid is low, it will howl or moan, but not really a grinding noise. This all depends on your definition of grinding.
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:21 PM   #88
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The steering sound isn't a screeching noise like I'm used to hearing. It's mostly a feeling in the steering wheel and a dull grinding sound.

I opened the PS reservoir, and since the reservoir itself isn't see-through, I'm not sure how to tell if it's low. There was fluid in it though lol.

I'll have to yank the radio and see what's going on back there since I put it in.
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:31 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlock View Post
The steering sound isn't a screeching noise like I'm used to hearing. It's mostly a feeling in the steering wheel and a dull grinding sound.

I opened the PS reservoir, and since the reservoir itself isn't see-through, I'm not sure how to tell if it's low. There was fluid in it though lol.

I'll have to yank the radio and see what's going on back there since I put it in.
The power steering reservoir lid should have a part that dips into the fluid. If not, the fluid level should be about 1"-1.5" from the top.
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Old 08-16-2017, 07:46 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by Ercmann View Post
Yes, to answer the last issue, sounds exactly like a ground loop issue. This is caused by a bad ground wire. Usually after adding an amplifier though. Factory ground wire connection on the back of the head unit should not cause this. As long as even after adding an after market head unit, just make sure you use the factory ground to ground the head unit.
I made a discovery this morning. I just happened to push the "next" button on the HU kinda hard by accident, and the feedback/noise suddenly stopped and came back. So I pushed on the HU itself. Noise stopped. I also noticed when taking a turn or bump if the HU moves a little bit, the sound will increase or decrease. It sits a little loose in the holder but I didn't think it moved that much.

I'm thinking, the wiring is kinda crammed up in there, and something might have come loose (the ground wire maybe?) and pushing on it or moving the HU a certain way is pushing the wires back together and making a clear signal. So, I think that might be the problem and not necessarily all 4 speakers being bad at the same time... I will investigate further, maybe I'll go to AutoZone later and if I need any connectors or whatever, I'll run in and get them. The HU is so easy to remove it should only take a few minutes to check it out. And I will make sure when I put it back in, that the wires have enough room, and I'll try to do something so the HU can't move as much as it does now.
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Old 08-16-2017, 12:15 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlock View Post
I made a discovery this morning. I just happened to push the "next" button on the HU kinda hard by accident, and the feedback/noise suddenly stopped and came back. So I pushed on the HU itself. Noise stopped. I also noticed when taking a turn or bump if the HU moves a little bit, the sound will increase or decrease. It sits a little loose in the holder but I didn't think it moved that much.

I'm thinking, the wiring is kinda crammed up in there, and something might have come loose (the ground wire maybe?) and pushing on it or moving the HU a certain way is pushing the wires back together and making a clear signal. So, I think that might be the problem and not necessarily all 4 speakers being bad at the same time... I will investigate further, maybe I'll go to AutoZone later and if I need any connectors or whatever, I'll run in and get them. The HU is so easy to remove it should only take a few minutes to check it out. And I will make sure when I put it back in, that the wires have enough room, and I'll try to do something so the HU can't move as much as it does now.
Definitely sounds like there is a wire(s) loose........ keep us posted on what you find.
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Old 08-16-2017, 01:49 PM   #92
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Moral of the story: never trust your own handywork to be flawless
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Old 08-18-2017, 08:13 AM   #93
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I think I fixed the head unit.

I pulled it out of the dash and turned the car on accessory mode to see what happened while I was holding it. It didn't make a lot of noise which was weird, but it did crackle a bit the first time I took it out. So I moved some other random wires out of the way; I have the fog light and second gear start buttons unplugged so they didn't need to be in the way.

Then I removed the big radio cable from the back of the head unit. I tucked the radio wires up on top of the head unit so nothing could push on them. I sat it back in the dash and listened to a full song play just fine. So it sounded alright.

I then grabbed two new microfiber towels and stuffed them underneath the head unit, and slid the whole thing back into the dash and put the bezel back on. Nice and snug. Hopefully they won't catch fire or anything lol.

I drove all the way home without it making any noise! So, unless it starts acting up again I'm happy with that lol.

I also fixed the power seat that suddenly stopped working two days ago. I would never have made the correlation between the power seat and the rear defrost... Until I read online another guy had the same problem with his '99 Z28. Turns out there's a 30A breaker for those two specific things in the driver's side fuse box. Apparently the rear defrost is just not the greatest and will draw too much current, tripping the breaker and causing the power seat to stop working (which also explains why the defrost light didn't light up when I pressed it this morning). I had used it the morning before that, that must have done it.

So, I replaced the 30A breaker with a 30A fuse and now the power seat works again! And I'll try to not use the rear defrost too much, lol.

UPDATE:
The head unit worked great this morning on the way to work. No issues at all! But, since I unplugged the radio cable, there's no radio. Never really used it anyway I'm thinking what it was, since the butt end of the head unit was hanging down with nothing to hold it up, it was putting a strain on the wires coming from the wiring harness. Or, it was the radio cable with a bad ground or something. I could plug the radio cable back in and see if the problem comes back, but I don't really feel like it haha. Maybe over the weekend when I do the speakers I'll give it a try.

The front door speakers do sound like poopy (but at least they're not the culprit of the awful noise), so I am gonna replace them with those Kenwood ones I bought months ago.
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Old 08-18-2017, 03:24 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harlock View Post
I think I fixed the head unit.

I pulled it out of the dash and turned the car on accessory mode to see what happened while I was holding it. It didn't make a lot of noise which was weird, but it did crackle a bit the first time I took it out. So I moved some other random wires out of the way; I have the fog light and second gear start buttons unplugged so they didn't need to be in the way.

Then I removed the big radio cable from the back of the head unit. I tucked the radio wires up on top of the head unit so nothing could push on them. I sat it back in the dash and listened to a full song play just fine. So it sounded alright.

I then grabbed two new microfiber towels and stuffed them underneath the head unit, and slid the whole thing back into the dash and put the bezel back on. Nice and snug. Hopefully they won't catch fire or anything lol.

I drove all the way home without it making any noise! So, unless it starts acting up again I'm happy with that lol.

I also fixed the power seat that suddenly stopped working two days ago. I would never have made the correlation between the power seat and the rear defrost... Until I read online another guy had the same problem with his '99 Z28. Turns out there's a 30A breaker for those two specific things in the driver's side fuse box. Apparently the rear defrost is just not the greatest and will draw too much current, tripping the breaker and causing the power seat to stop working (which also explains why the defrost light didn't light up when I pressed it this morning). I had used it the morning before that, that must have done it.

So, I replaced the 30A breaker with a 30A fuse and now the power seat works again! And I'll try to not use the rear defrost too much, lol.

UPDATE:
The head unit worked great this morning on the way to work. No issues at all! But, since I unplugged the radio cable, there's no radio. Never really used it anyway I'm thinking what it was, since the butt end of the head unit was hanging down with nothing to hold it up, it was putting a strain on the wires coming from the wiring harness. Or, it was the radio cable with a bad ground or something. I could plug the radio cable back in and see if the problem comes back, but I don't really feel like it haha. Maybe over the weekend when I do the speakers I'll give it a try.

The front door speakers do sound like poopy (but at least they're not the culprit of the awful noise), so I am gonna replace them with those Kenwood ones I bought months ago.
Awesome ! Happy you figured it out.
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Old 08-19-2017, 10:45 AM   #95
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The left exhaust tip fell off of the car doing 50 on a backroad-ish highway this morning. It's all banged up. Looks like the tack welds couldn't hold it on (I did not know they were only tack welded and not tightly sealed). Luckily I had the t-tops out and heard it banging around underneath the car, then down the road a bit. Boyfriend got out and ran up the road to get it for me.

I'm gonna take Dana (the cavalier) to a parts store and get two flat band clamps to clamp them both down. It's stainless steel so I don't know if there's anything I can do to fix the damage to the slightly shiny finish on it... Damn it. Those tips were over $150. Wasn't expecting them to get ruined less than a week after getting the car back.
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