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Old 02-13-2015, 04:17 PM   #21
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Uneducated people still think I do when it's running... Truthfully my little 3.4 sounds nice at low RPMs, but damn once you get up about 3 grand it's a little embarrassing haha. Benefits/curses of opening up the exhaust flow.
The 3.4 uses the same rods from the 350 and has almost the same stroke...that's one of the reasons why it has a "close to V8 rumble" at idle, especially cammed...

The drawback comes with the 60° crank angle...once the thing hits higher RPM's it doesn't sound as good, lol
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Old 03-09-2015, 11:50 AM   #22
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The 3.4 uses the same rods from the 350 and has almost the same stroke...that's one of the reasons why it has a "close to V8 rumble" at idle, especially cammed...

The drawback comes with the 60° crank angle...once the thing hits higher RPM's it doesn't sound as good, lol
Wow, I did not know that about the rods. Mine's not cammed but that would make it sound pretty nice. At idle, lol.

UPDATE on my car: I've been driving with the bad camber for a few weeks because I like having a job. The pull is, well, pulling, but it's really not bad you just adjust how you grip the wheel. I have made slight adjustments to toe, and I'm now within 0.5 or 1.0mm of being zero toe. Some wear to the front tires is already visible. I'm going to watch that closely but some of it could be from when I had the toe way off.

GOING FORWARD I have several things to consider. One is a new crossmember. I could get a junkyard one, or an aftermarket tubular. Another option could possibly be much cheaper, which is adjustable upper control arms. My camber is so close to being where it needs to be that might give me enough adjustment to 'balance' between the left and right. Ultimately I still need to correct the underlying cause, but that could stop the uneven wear and pull.

I've also heard of people using a dremel to extend the adjustment slot for camber, but this just doesn't sound like a good idea. Or if anyone's done that successfully for whatever reason, let me know any considerations in doing that because it would definitely be the cheapest thing to do. If it works.
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Old 03-09-2015, 12:12 PM   #23
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Here, basically what I'm asking is would doing this give me additional NEGATIVE camber? Typically I think these things help lowered vehicles, which have a problem with too much negative camber. Since I have positive I wonder if the adjustment would work enough in the other direction.
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Old 03-09-2015, 04:41 PM   #24
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Get a new cross member. If you keep putting band aids on it then other things will start being under more stress.

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Old 03-09-2015, 09:10 PM   #25
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Get a new cross member. If you keep putting band aids on it then other things will start being under more stress.
Right...

Cheapest, easiest, fastest, and MOST reliable, right here:

1993 2002 Camaro Firebird LT1 to LS1 Conversion Complete K Member w Brakes | eBay
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:33 AM   #26
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Right...

Cheapest, easiest, fastest, and MOST reliable, right here:

1993 2002 Camaro Firebird LT1 to LS1 Conversion Complete K Member w Brakes | eBay
That ad is for the wrong K-member... That eBay link is for an LS1 K-member. OP needs an LT1 K-member.
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Old 03-10-2015, 06:34 AM   #27
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Is the lt1 k-member the same as the v6? I think he has a v6.

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Old 03-10-2015, 07:55 AM   #28
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Is the lt1 k-member the same as the v6? I think he has a v6.
LT1 and V6 K-members are different...

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That ad is for the wrong K-member... That eBay link is for an LS1 K-member. OP needs an LT1 K-member.
Thanks for the clarification.

When I read the ad, I read it as LT1 OR LS1 K-member, because honestly, I thought that all V8's used the same K-member from '93 - '02...

Either way, I believe the advice on getting a whole new k-member assembly to be sound and that it is his best bet on getting his car fixed properly...

EDIT: After rereading the ad, the braking system was from the LS1...probably not a direct bolt on then...
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Old 03-10-2015, 10:30 AM   #29
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Yeah I should probably put my setup in my sig line, lol, I do have the 3.4l. New member syndrome.

Well before I replace the k-member, wouldn't I need to go to a frame shop and make sure it isn't the only thing bent? Otherwise that would be a waste also.

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Either way, I believe the advice to be sound and that it is his best bet on getting his car fixed...

After rereading the ad, the braking system was from the LS1...probably not a direct bolt on then...
If I swap out the whole front end the only thing that matters is if I can mount my motor onto it, I think. That setup even has the steering rack, which I also need to replace.

I did notice it has a bent tie rod, though, that could be a concern. Anyhow point stands, I could swap my front end for $350 plus shipping, basically.
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Old 03-10-2015, 12:49 PM   #30
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If I swap out the whole front end the only thing that matters is if I can mount my motor onto it, I think. That setup even has the steering rack, which I also need to replace.

I did notice it has a bent tie rod, though, that could be a concern. Anyhow point stands, I could swap my front end for $350 plus shipping, basically.
Right...and you will need the V6 k-member...

With all the front end issues and things that need to be addressed, that makes the most sense to me...even if the parts on it are going bad, they can be replaced later...you'd be driving now with minimal output...

As far as a frame shop goes, the k-member itself bolts to the frame in holes that have some play to them and with the angle you hit at, I don't think it should be too far outside spec (if it was at all) that it would be hard to bolt back into place...where it bolts, there is a lot of body to move...I'd say your font end gave out before the body did and that it should be okay to attempt without a frame shop...
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Old 03-10-2015, 01:47 PM   #31
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I don't really know if that K-member will work. I don't know enough about the 3.4L cars to know what type of K-member they have/can use. Might be able to find it through some searching but I'm too lazy. :P
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:10 PM   #32
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I've got a 3.4 car that I'll be parting out. Good front k member. The motor went and I ended up with a Z28


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