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Old 07-21-2015, 04:07 AM   #1
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3800 Series II/III Engine Replacement help

Hello.
I have been Researching for about 4 months on to Extracting my Series 2 OEM engine (L36)
and Installing a Used motor from a junked Bonneville or equal vehicle using the FWD application of the motor (l26), All that needs to be done is everything should be removed from the L26 motor, basically down to block, some parts are interchangeable.
then take the items off your L36 and place them onto the L26.
The lower and upper intake will be swapped as well.

Unsure on the rules of referencing other forums on this information, but, 3800 Series II/III Engine Replacement Info. - Camaro Forums - Chevy Camaro Enthusiast Forum

It says Quote:
"If you buy a FWD [l26] engine here is what you will need to remove from the new engine (and swap from your carís original engine)
Oil Pan
Oil pickup tube/screen
Oil filter mount (on the timing cover)
Upper intake
Lower intake
Fuel rail
Fuel injectors
Belt tensioner/Heater hose manifold (replace the plastic elbows and make sure the ends of the old elbow did not stick inside the manifolds.)
Flywheel
Harmonic balancer
Valve covers (some engines have the oil filler in the middle of the cover and will not work too well with the Camaro/Firebird)
Exhaust Manifolds
Oil dipstick
All accessory brackets from the Camaro/Firebird engine over to the new engine. (You may want to leave the engine hook on the rear right side off so you can remove the valve cover easier in the future)

The Water pump, Timing chain cover, Crank Sensor (CKS), Cam Sensor (CMS), and Knock Sensors are the same on all 96-08 3800 engines. You can also use the coils and ICM from the FWD engine on your Camaro engine. If you donít need them right now keep them aside they are not cheap to replace and it is good to have parts like that in reserve.

With the Flywheel and harmonic balancer, they are designed to work together and should be kept together. The FWD balancer may look the same but it is built to balance the flywheel of the FWD engine. If you can look at the imprints the crank leaves on the flywheel, match them up on the new engine for best results. Be careful with the Harmonic Balancer, there are tin metal plates inside that are the reluctor wheels for the CKS, These must be in good condition for your ignition system to function properly."


***************

The question I have is:


I have a "throttle by cable" upper intake manifold / Throttle body..

The motor I am looking for vastly comes in "throttle by wire" body and intake. .

How much will this affect my installation?
Any help would be much appriciated, as I now have a son and have to get my only personal car back on the road as soon as possible! My wife needs her car back lol. otherwise I would Spend the money and drop the l67

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Old 07-21-2015, 05:53 AM   #2
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You already answered your question at the beginning of your post.

Use your throttle body and intake. The only thing you can use from the fwd engine is the short block, which is the block and its internals (rotating assembly).


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Old 07-21-2015, 01:31 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ercmann View Post
You already answered your question at the beginning of your post.

Use your throttle body and intake. The only thing you can use from the fwd engine is the short block, which is the block and its internals (rotating assembly).


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I was thinking hard about it and that's what I concluded BUT- will other connections the block have different connectors? Like crank sensor, will the computer be fooled? As in confused or what not. I ahvent been avle to find solid answers... Also Dropping the l67 causes multiple problems that I don't have the resources to resolve, VATS is one for starters.. (L67 being the supercharged 38 for the Pontiac gtp series and regal) and how to "test" a motor before installation ? And I had an additional question lol. Pull from top? Or drop it and lift the car off the k frame?

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Old 07-21-2015, 02:36 PM   #4
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As far as the drop or pull question, I'm just looking for opinions
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Old 07-21-2015, 02:37 PM   #5
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3800 Series II/III Engine Replacement help

Easier to drop it out the bottom. Front end in an F-body is really light with the motor disconnected. Trying to pull it out from underneath the cowl is a fools errand.


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Old 07-21-2015, 03:53 PM   #6
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So I've heard, there's a YouTube of it, but I wanna drop it so I can do a real good job on gaskets. Maybe replace head gaskets before the install. But the donor engine is only 80 k so. .
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:44 PM   #7
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80k is still plenty of miles to warrant a refresh if it has been sitting any length if time. May be mechanically sound, but gaskets can dry out pretty quickly and the type of tear down you're looking at will let you inspect most items visually.


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Old 07-22-2015, 07:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BK047 View Post
80k is still plenty of miles to warrant a refresh if it has been sitting any length if time. May be mechanically sound, but gaskets can dry out pretty quickly and the type of tear down you're looking at will let you inspect most items visually.


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First time doing this. When I swap head gaskets - the heads, how much do they wiegh? And what should I look for IF I take the head off? Should I take the heads off? Should I even replace the head gaskets? Can I inspect them without taking the head off? The other gaskets like oil pan , valve cvr, and intake gaskets I've done before, and is it difficult to remove the head on this engine?

Last edited by 1369666; 07-22-2015 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1369666 View Post
First time doing this. When I swap head gaskets - the heads, how much do they wiegh? And what should I look for IF I take the head off? Should I take the heads off? Should I even replace the head gaskets? Can I inspect them without taking the head off? The other gaskets like oil pan , valve cvr, and intake gaskets I've done before, and is it difficult to remove the head on this engine?

If you get a used engine if it was me
I would take the heads off have then checked for cracks or being worped and replace the gaskets the 3.8 l are horrible about the head gasket and intake gaskets leaking


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Old 07-22-2015, 11:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfeman View Post
If you get a used engine if it was me
I would take the heads off have then checked for cracks or being worped and replace the gaskets the 3.8 l are horrible about the head gasket and intake gaskets leaking


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I knew about the intake but I wasn'tsure if they upgraded the head gaskets
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:36 AM   #11
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You can't really check the head gaskets visually. They can blow in a number of places and can do it either internally or externally.

A Haynes or Clymer manual is going to be your friend. You really want to pay attention to torque spec as well as torque PATTERN when reassembling: you can torque every bolt to spec, but if you do it in the wrong order, you can still ruin parts or get parts that don't seal properly.




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Old 07-23-2015, 12:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1369666 View Post
I knew about the intake but I wasn'tsure if they upgraded the head gaskets

They knew about it being bad about leaking but didn't fix them but I would replace the head gaskets and send the heads off to have them checked and make sure you get new head bolts also you can't reuse the old ones


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Old 07-23-2015, 02:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfeman View Post
They knew about it being bad about leaking but didn't fix them but I would replace the head gaskets and send the heads off to have them checked and make sure you get new head bolts also you can't reuse the old ones


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The gaskets kits comes with bolts, an I got a Haynes manual somewhere....
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Old 07-23-2015, 03:19 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by 1369666 View Post
The gaskets kits comes with bolts, an I got a Haynes manual somewhere....

Mine didn't is why I said that


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Old 07-24-2015, 01:53 AM   #15
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Yea some don't, I'll have to research as to what store had a complete kit cause all I found was a quick eBay/amazon search
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Old 07-27-2015, 05:29 PM   #16
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So one thing as I'm in the same process, do I use the flywheel from the RWD set motor or can I keep the same one already on the FWD engine?

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Old 07-28-2015, 04:52 PM   #17
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So one thing as I'm in the same process, do I use the flywheel from the RWD set motor or can I keep the same one already on the FWD engine?

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I good question, if you read the original post, it states to use your rwd flywheel, and instructions to provide best results, I'm on my phone e so I can't copy/ paste
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:35 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 1369666 View Post
I good question, if you read the original post, it states to use your rwd flywheel, and instructions to provide best results, I'm on my phone e so I can't copy/ paste
My bad, my eyes slipped that one.

One question, what about VIN 2 instead of K? What's the difference?

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Old 07-31-2015, 11:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SergheiS View Post
My bad, my eyes slipped that one.

One question, what about VIN 2 instead of K? What's the difference?

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I'm actually not too sure about the difference between the VIN 2 and VIN K, And seeing as no one has chimed in, I don't think anyone off hand knows the difference either.
There may be no difference at all O.o

One thing is for sure is I am going to research into the difference, or see if i can provide an answer
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Old 07-31-2015, 11:48 PM   #20
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I'm actually not too sure about the difference between the VIN 2 and VIN K, And seeing as no one has chimed in, I don't think anyone off hand knows the difference either.
There may be no difference at all O.o

One thing is for sure is I am going to research into the difference, or see if i can provide an answer
Based on the link you gave me ( http://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-...nt-info-57568/ )
This makes it sound like there is no difference...but I am going to a junkyard Monday to take a look (and possibly pick it up) so I suppose I'll know the difference, or lack thereof, then.

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