If you are curious as to how to replace the Oil Pan or gasket while the engine is still in the car, here's how.
First, you have the option to remove the bracket to the steering knuckle on the driver side, for the steering rack. I did not have to do this as I installed aftermarket hooker headers. Which provided further clearance, if your completely stock, then you will have to remove the bolt. This can be a bit tough. Use a bit of WD's rust formula - then ensure you have the right socket, I believe is a 10mm. Once you have the nut off, you may have to pry at the joint but do not pry in the middle. Sides only, and use minimal force each pry.
You will now likely need to remove the AC condenser if you need access to the passenger motor mount. This likely you can just undo the mounting bolts for the unit, without disconnecting hoses.
Once this is off, Obtain an "cherry picker" Ive used one for many other jobs since I bought it for this one, its a fantastic tool. Harbor freight has reasonable prices for the hoist I used.
Use this to wrap around the mount, then lift about half inch, to get the mount out, raise the motor as high you can get it, be sure each 3 pumps you are not pinching something.
Remove the trans bolt to motor mount brace on the passenger side. Replace the bolt on the motor mount. Place a jack stand under the mount as a catch, for added safety.
Remove the starter.
Remove the fly wheel cover shield.
remove the oil level connector, Knock sensor connectors.
Then, Remove the oil pan bolts.
Once removed, on the passenger side will be the oil pickup tube, 8mm bolts.
remove the tube then rotate the pan outwards. do not use force, use angles. it will come-out.
Chiltons says to remove the bellhousing, svc manual says to lower the kframe. No, just raise the motor as high as you can.
Once this was out, I cleaned all surfaces, then held the gasket up, making sure my finger clear, an assistant hand turned the motor, the gasket was not rubbing.
Using gasket maker, I reinstalled the gasket and waited 15 minutes to RTV the pan, then torqued to 10 . 4 Ft. Lbs.
The noise I heard was The pistons dry. I sprayed them with wd 40, and the motor sounded normal upon dry cranking.
Reconnecting the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires. Ensured my motor was clear of obstruction. ensured i had adequate oil:
Ran awesome. Although it was starved of fuel, looks like my fuel filter connection was leaking we had only run the motor for a minute as a result, but in that minute there was no immediate errors, and the CPU ran it fine.
I do have an oil pressure sending unit issue, but this will be fixed.
Needs to be done:
Brake line screws need to be found, installed.
I have to bleed the clutch, The brake lines, the ABS unit will have to be done by a shop
(unless there is a tip from the pros on here
The fuel filter needs to be replaced.
EGR needs to be installed, new mount required.
I want at this time to say a special thanks to those who gave me tips on this process, and the other posts related to this car. I dont think I would have gotten this far if it wasn't for this forum, as well; I would not have the love I have for the GM series V6 and Fbody series.
Yes, "shoulda done a ls" is what I've heard a-lot, but this route would have costed more in the long run and something about having the very last year this V6 was produced in this car, is kinda a cool note to tag on this camaro.
Ill keep the forum posted.