3800 Series II/III Engine Replacement help - Page 6 - Camaro Zone - Camaro Forums and News

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Old 06-05-2017, 02:12 AM   #101
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Got this installed (with NEW bushing, not old one shown) . seems to be in the right spot.. hold the tourqe arm. ....

This part :

I Am so confused over. out of all the parts i have a pretty good memory of, I'm just perplexed as to how this is to be reinstalled , advice? ? ? ? I bet its how im thinking it goes, but I just want to be sure I'm not to connect this incorrectly....
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Old 06-05-2017, 03:34 AM   #102
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So it looks like i have found the answer / diagram through this nifty site!

"F body files folder"

https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti#40mfgeoe4ctti

Service manuals and parts blow ups - This is something you may want to check out.
Downloadable PDF's!!
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Looks like its just a hangar piece, and nothing more, additionally i have the tourqe arm installed upside down possibly, ill have to take a look....

Last edited by 1369666; 06-05-2017 at 04:04 AM.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:10 AM   #103
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Got the new Driver door! Craigs list complete door! 30 bucks! Also put polyurethane bushing into the torque arm bushing, to do so as per instructed i had to grind the old rivets to remove the old bushing,

The old tans mount was destroyed, welded back together, and naturally-destroyed again.

So once this mount is obtained, tighten to specs and put the harness on, brake booster and master back together, pwr steering pump pulley back on, fix a brake line i installed that was snagged and kinked, install the door and install wires plugs and ect... Maybe ill have a video of this thing running for you guys soon!
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:24 AM   #104
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Drive shaft was set in place as well, more pictures for those interested.
Cleaned out the drive shaft trans teeth, rag and wd worked wonders, used a small amount of brake/axle grease for refit.
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Old 06-17-2017, 03:28 AM   #105
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I also felt the need to rust proof it white.
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Old 09-22-2020, 03:10 PM   #106
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I have continued to work on this, I was held up with life events.

I will post pictures and further when I am able to.

Thanks for following guys!
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Old 09-25-2020, 10:25 PM   #107
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Hey guys.

So, Using the starter to turn the motor, everything turns. However my buddy advised I should be careful of the windage tray smacking the crank. Now, When I turn over the motor by hand- with plugs out it does resist at certain spots. I removed the pan and inspected the tray and seems to be undamaged.

Has anyone heard of the windage tray smacking the crank?

im tempted to start the motor and if it destroys the windage tray well... then I replace it.

But im curious if anyone else ran into this.

-13
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Old 09-26-2020, 10:32 AM   #108
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So after some research, it would seem the series 3 Engines, may have a different Clearence for the oilpan gasket / windage tray. this will require me to change the gasket, OR i over tightend the gasket and warped it.

ill keep this updated.
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Old 09-28-2020, 01:46 AM   #109
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Another update:

Well,

If you are curious as to how to replace the Oil Pan or gasket while the engine is still in the car, here's how.

First, you have the option to remove the bracket to the steering knuckle on the driver side, for the steering rack. I did not have to do this as I installed aftermarket hooker headers. Which provided further clearance, if your completely stock, then you will have to remove the bolt. This can be a bit tough. Use a bit of WD's rust formula - then ensure you have the right socket, I believe is a 10mm. Once you have the nut off, you may have to pry at the joint but do not pry in the middle. Sides only, and use minimal force each pry.

You will now likely need to remove the AC condenser if you need access to the passenger motor mount. This likely you can just undo the mounting bolts for the unit, without disconnecting hoses.

Once this is off, Obtain an "cherry picker" Ive used one for many other jobs since I bought it for this one, its a fantastic tool. Harbor freight has reasonable prices for the hoist I used.

Use this to wrap around the mount, then lift about half inch, to get the mount out, raise the motor as high you can get it, be sure each 3 pumps you are not pinching something.

Remove the trans bolt to motor mount brace on the passenger side. Replace the bolt on the motor mount. Place a jack stand under the mount as a catch, for added safety.

Remove the starter.

Remove the fly wheel cover shield.

remove the oil level connector, Knock sensor connectors.

Then, Remove the oil pan bolts.

Once removed, on the passenger side will be the oil pickup tube, 8mm bolts.

remove the tube then rotate the pan outwards. do not use force, use angles. it will come-out.

Chiltons says to remove the bellhousing, svc manual says to lower the kframe. No, just raise the motor as high as you can.


Once this was out, I cleaned all surfaces, then held the gasket up, making sure my finger clear, an assistant hand turned the motor, the gasket was not rubbing.

Using gasket maker, I reinstalled the gasket and waited 15 minutes to RTV the pan, then torqued to 10 . 4 Ft. Lbs.

The noise I heard was The pistons dry. I sprayed them with wd 40, and the motor sounded normal upon dry cranking.

Reconnecting the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires. Ensured my motor was clear of obstruction. ensured i had adequate oil:

The motor:



Ran awesome. Although it was starved of fuel, looks like my fuel filter connection was leaking we had only run the motor for a minute as a result, but in that minute there was no immediate errors, and the CPU ran it fine.

I do have an oil pressure sending unit issue, but this will be fixed.



Needs to be done:

Brake line screws need to be found, installed.
I have to bleed the clutch, The brake lines, the ABS unit will have to be done by a shop
(unless there is a tip from the pros on here )
The fuel filter needs to be replaced.
EGR needs to be installed, new mount required.






I want at this time to say a special thanks to those who gave me tips on this process, and the other posts related to this car. I dont think I would have gotten this far if it wasn't for this forum, as well; I would not have the love I have for the GM series V6 and Fbody series.


Yes, "shoulda done a ls" is what I've heard a-lot, but this route would have costed more in the long run and something about having the very last year this V6 was produced in this car, is kinda a cool note to tag on this camaro.


Ill keep the forum posted.
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Old 09-28-2020, 01:53 AM   #110
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