3800 Series II/III Engine Replacement help - Page 6 - Camaro Zone - Camaro Forums and News

Go Back   Camaro Zone - Camaro Forums and News > Camaro & Firebird Tech Forums > V6 Camaro and Firebird Tech

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
 
Old 06-05-2017, 03:12 AM   #101
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Got this installed (with NEW bushing, not old one shown) . seems to be in the right spot.. hold the tourqe arm. ....

This part :

I Am so confused over. out of all the parts i have a pretty good memory of, I'm just perplexed as to how this is to be reinstalled , advice? ? ? ? I bet its how im thinking it goes, but I just want to be sure I'm not to connect this incorrectly....
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-05-2017, 04:34 AM   #102
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Click image for larger version

Name:	found my answer2.PNG
Views:	103
Size:	91.8 KB
ID:	36817



So it looks like i have found the answer / diagram through this nifty site!

"F body files folder"

https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti#40mfgeoe4ctti

Service manuals and parts blow ups - This is something you may want to check out.
Downloadable PDF's!!
Click image for larger version

Name:	found my answer.PNG
Views:	106
Size:	56.2 KB
ID:	36809

Looks like its just a hangar piece, and nothing more, additionally i have the tourqe arm installed upside down possibly, ill have to take a look....

Last edited by 1369666; 06-05-2017 at 05:04 AM.
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2017, 04:10 AM   #103
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Got the new Driver door! Craigs list complete door! 30 bucks! Also put polyurethane bushing into the torque arm bushing, to do so as per instructed i had to grind the old rivets to remove the old bushing,

The old tans mount was destroyed, welded back together, and naturally-destroyed again.

So once this mount is obtained, tighten to specs and put the harness on, brake booster and master back together, pwr steering pump pulley back on, fix a brake line i installed that was snagged and kinked, install the door and install wires plugs and ect... Maybe ill have a video of this thing running for you guys soon!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1497659781332_1497682994364.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	39.3 KB
ID:	36905   Click image for larger version

Name:	1496620494571_1497683118135.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	60.3 KB
ID:	36913  

Last edited by 1369666; 06-17-2017 at 04:17 AM.
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-17-2017, 04:24 AM   #104
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Drive shaft was set in place as well, more pictures for those interested.
Cleaned out the drive shaft trans teeth, rag and wd worked wonders, used a small amount of brake/axle grease for refit.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170606_193629_1497684015947.jpg
Views:	83
Size:	48.0 KB
ID:	36921   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170606_193611_1497684038716.jpg
Views:	85
Size:	65.0 KB
ID:	36929   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170606_201509_1497684132087.jpg
Views:	86
Size:	42.8 KB
ID:	36937   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170606_201904_1497684214738.jpg
Views:	84
Size:	32.6 KB
ID:	36945   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170606_202211_1497684230172.jpg
Views:	92
Size:	35.0 KB
ID:	36953  

1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2017, 04:28 AM   #105
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
I also felt the need to rust proof it white.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170606_201415_1497684425093.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	42.4 KB
ID:	36961   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_20170606_201400_1497684450815.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	43.7 KB
ID:	36969  
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2020, 04:10 PM   #106
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
I have continued to work on this, I was held up with life events.

I will post pictures and further when I am able to.

Thanks for following guys!
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2020, 11:25 PM   #107
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Hey guys.

So, Using the starter to turn the motor, everything turns. However my buddy advised I should be careful of the windage tray smacking the crank. Now, When I turn over the motor by hand- with plugs out it does resist at certain spots. I removed the pan and inspected the tray and seems to be undamaged.

Has anyone heard of the windage tray smacking the crank?

im tempted to start the motor and if it destroys the windage tray well... then I replace it.

But im curious if anyone else ran into this.

-13
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2020, 11:32 AM   #108
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
So after some research, it would seem the series 3 Engines, may have a different Clearence for the oilpan gasket / windage tray. this will require me to change the gasket, OR i over tightend the gasket and warped it.

ill keep this updated.
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2020, 02:46 AM   #109
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Another update:

Well,

If you are curious as to how to replace the Oil Pan or gasket while the engine is still in the car, here's how.

First, you have the option to remove the bracket to the steering knuckle on the driver side, for the steering rack. I did not have to do this as I installed aftermarket hooker headers. Which provided further clearance, if your completely stock, then you will have to remove the bolt. This can be a bit tough. Use a bit of WD's rust formula - then ensure you have the right socket, I believe is a 10mm. Once you have the nut off, you may have to pry at the joint but do not pry in the middle. Sides only, and use minimal force each pry.

You will now likely need to remove the AC condenser if you need access to the passenger motor mount. This likely you can just undo the mounting bolts for the unit, without disconnecting hoses.

Once this is off, Obtain an "cherry picker" Ive used one for many other jobs since I bought it for this one, its a fantastic tool. Harbor freight has reasonable prices for the hoist I used.

Use this to wrap around the mount, then lift about half inch, to get the mount out, raise the motor as high you can get it, be sure each 3 pumps you are not pinching something.

Remove the trans bolt to motor mount brace on the passenger side. Replace the bolt on the motor mount. Place a jack stand under the mount as a catch, for added safety.

Remove the starter.

Remove the fly wheel cover shield.

remove the oil level connector, Knock sensor connectors.

Then, Remove the oil pan bolts.

Once removed, on the passenger side will be the oil pickup tube, 8mm bolts.

remove the tube then rotate the pan outwards. do not use force, use angles. it will come-out.

Chiltons says to remove the bellhousing, svc manual says to lower the kframe. No, just raise the motor as high as you can.


Once this was out, I cleaned all surfaces, then held the gasket up, making sure my finger clear, an assistant hand turned the motor, the gasket was not rubbing.

Using gasket maker, I reinstalled the gasket and waited 15 minutes to RTV the pan, then torqued to 10 . 4 Ft. Lbs.

The noise I heard was The pistons dry. I sprayed them with wd 40, and the motor sounded normal upon dry cranking.

Reconnecting the fuel pump, spark plugs and wires. Ensured my motor was clear of obstruction. ensured i had adequate oil:

The motor:



Ran awesome. Although it was starved of fuel, looks like my fuel filter connection was leaking we had only run the motor for a minute as a result, but in that minute there was no immediate errors, and the CPU ran it fine.

I do have an oil pressure sending unit issue, but this will be fixed.



Needs to be done:

Brake line screws need to be found, installed.
I have to bleed the clutch, The brake lines, the ABS unit will have to be done by a shop
(unless there is a tip from the pros on here )
The fuel filter needs to be replaced.
EGR needs to be installed, new mount required.






I want at this time to say a special thanks to those who gave me tips on this process, and the other posts related to this car. I dont think I would have gotten this far if it wasn't for this forum, as well; I would not have the love I have for the GM series V6 and Fbody series.


Yes, "shoulda done a ls" is what I've heard a-lot, but this route would have costed more in the long run and something about having the very last year this V6 was produced in this car, is kinda a cool note to tag on this camaro.


Ill keep the forum posted.
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2020, 02:53 AM   #110
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2020, 01:27 AM   #111
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
I have completed the car and it is legally on the road after passing emissions.

yay!

However after much work:

I found a 2000's Camaro V6 at the local yard, I pulled the fuel lines from this rust-less car. I was so sad to see this car in the yard. I painted several layers of rustolium onto the lines (red) and installed the lines.

This required to remove the driver side trans chassis-mount from the body, the exhaust cross plate, the front and rear lines are all quick disconnects, with the exception of the fuel-rail, which the plastic quick-disconnect tools had worked fine.

I had to buy new preflared / fitted brake lines for the fronts, which 6ft lines worked just fine.
the line to the rear connector I had to flare with a flaring tool.

EGR tube and assembly was broken, so the 2000 at the yard and pulled the EGR from this.
I also pulled the fender.
I bought a new OPS unit which solved the oil gauge issue.

I simply gravity bled the brake system, then used a mightyvac to ensure no air.
Used dot 4 fluids.

After this was done I went to have the exhaust welded.
I found the gas tank was leaking.

A new 1998 Tank is around the sum of 270-370 dollars.
The reason this is is because the 98's had a specific year tank.

I had simply went to the 2000's Camaro from our junk yard, and removed the gas tank. I found another 2000's random GM car with a plastic tank, and used its gas filler cap.
As the rear end was lowered, I took the opportunity to swap the newer springs for the rear end.
As expected - the fuel pump was bad.
Purchased then a "Universal" unit from oriely's. This was 270 with taxes.

The allotted me to wire the pump to the car. (This was easy to do with the "fuel pump access door" previously cut in the trunk. )


I was worried about the Fuel Sending Unit not sending the correct amount in the tank. After 13.5 gallons, the meter reads full. So no issues there


So now the car has a plastic tank. Both tank weigh the same, as the charcoal canister is mounted on the gas tank.

Readiness monitors passed EPA for the Gas tank, which required 0 re-wiring of the harness. Plug, n play.

after this the exhaust was welded, and due to the Pacesetter headers, I was obtaining a 1153 code.

Turns out, the alternator had a loose connection causing the 1153 codes.
After fixing the faulty alternator connection, the 1153 code did not appear in the pending faults found.
New 02's had been purchased, in thinking the 02's had been faulty - and from graphed data suggesting such.

After this there is no CEL light.
the Engine runs super smooth, tons of power you would expect from the 3800, but seems to have a bit more of a punch to it, it maybe perhaps because its a newer engine than a 190,000 motor - or perhaps the headers.

I had fixed the squished in nose as much as I could, as previously someone backed into the nose of the car, which happened on both sides.
After pulling this our, and replacing the fender clips, I finally have functional foglamps, that are OEM.

I also replaced the Dash-lights, which is actually a very simple process - two screw up top of the cluster 7mm -
Then gently pull the plastic cover off, four- 7 mm screws hold the cluster - out comes the cluster, pop the old bulbs off the back, pop the new ones you obtained from the yard from another cluster.

Replacing the door is a bit more difficult, and will need adjustment to fit the weather strip.

I need to obtain the GM switches for the windows. .

But other then these things, the original intent of this thread is completed - the car is legal and operable for 2 years, until another EPA test, which I am no longer fearful of as I know the process of repair to this car on almost every path.

I truly hope this forum helps someone in the same process, after doing this with this car, I would love to do it again, as I now know how simple it really is to remove the motor from the underside.
This largely assisted in replacing and fixing other things that would have failed over a small amount of time ensuring the cars reliability over an extended period of time.

Thanks again to this forum for making this possible.
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2020, 01:29 AM   #112
Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 489
Thanks: 122
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
1369666 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
3800. series, engine, ii/iii, replacement

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
3800 Series II engine SergheiS Parts/Misc. Classifieds 12 10-14-2015 04:09 PM
'98 3800 Series II Performance Help? JShack V6 Camaro and Firebird Tech 27 01-27-2014 05:30 PM
96 3800 series II check gauges after water pump failure and replacement laraujo417 4th Gen (1993-97) Camaro and Firebird Tech 3 11-14-2012 10:25 PM
For Sale 3800 series 2 engine chevcamaro Parts/Misc. Classifieds 12 07-29-2012 01:42 AM
Wanted 3800 Series II engine parts or engine as a whole Navypilot2011 Parts/Misc. Classifieds 3 12-29-2010 01:27 AM


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:35 PM.
Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.0
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2020 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright © CamaroZone.com

CamaroZone.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by General Motors or Chevrolet.