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Old 10-04-2010, 10:31 PM   #1
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My cat is being gutted... on its own?

For a while now my car has been making this terrible rattling noise from the cat. I always thought it was just the heat shield and just dealt with it. Well i just got it up on a lift to let my mechanic tear the shield off, and.. well its not the shield. He tapped the cat with a hammer and the whole internal honeycomb crap inside is just rolling around. Yet, its not showing any codes at all.

He recommended just taking it down and gutting it since its not throwing codes, or he said just to deal with it and it'll basically gut itself. How is this not throwing codes? and if i wait how long should it take to clear out? lol
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Old 10-05-2010, 11:15 AM   #2
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You should gut it now. You don't want pieces of it lodging into your muffler.
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:20 PM   #3
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ya, it will clog. gut it now.
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Old 10-05-2010, 06:21 PM   #4
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A piece of re-bar and a hammer
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:52 AM   #5
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Lol, not sure how its not getting codes for it but Im pretty sure autozone will clear them for free if they do pop up.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:09 AM   #6
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gut it man.. u have baffles n shit in ur muffler u dont want all that shit comin from ur cat gettin caught in there
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:58 PM   #7
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So that mean i have to cut the cat down then weld it back up? no muffler place will weld it back up for me because its technically illegal. lol
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Old 10-06-2010, 03:33 PM   #8
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You could clamp it in.
And there's always a shop that'll do a job for the right amount.
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Old 10-06-2010, 03:34 PM   #9
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You could clamp it in.
And there's always a shop that'll do a job for the right amount.

Yeah for $10k cause thats the amount the shop will get charged if they get caught.
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:06 PM   #10
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Im pretty sure autozone will clear them for free if they do pop up.
Not anymore, sir.
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:07 PM   #11
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Not anymore, sir.
That must be extremely new because my fiance had a code cleared last week..
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:18 PM   #12
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That must be extremely new because my fiance had a code cleared last week..
It's state by state, location by location, store by store, employee by employee.

Most times, they are not allowed to because people will get codes erased right before an inspection, or when they are trying to sell a vehicle.

Or, because people will get rid of the light, and assume everything's fixed, then their car explodes and they blame Autozone for "not warning them".

You can try it, I've been turned down most times I go. When I play the dumb card "er... but how do I fix it? I read on the internet, I have to get some special scanner to clear the light???" and they'll do it for me.
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:26 PM   #13
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Every time I have went to get a code cleared. All I do is ask and they hand me the reader and say here ya go! I guess technically they aren't clearing it but yeah. I still go there to get my codes cleared.

Except my truck which I have the gauge that reads my codes and I can clear them from that.
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Old 10-06-2010, 04:30 PM   #14
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Every time I have went to get a code cleared. All I do is ask and they hand me the reader and say here ya go! I guess technically they aren't clearing it but yeah. I still go there to get my codes cleared.
Had a guy read a code for me, then talked me through how to delete it, since he technically "cant" do it.
It all depends.
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Old 10-06-2010, 06:23 PM   #15
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Ah all the ****ers at auto zone and advance auto don't know shit around here. I swear they just hire any Captain Dumbass off the street.
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Old 10-06-2010, 09:46 PM   #16
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I'd definitely gut it now for the reasons mentioned. If it fully collapses, your exhaust will be clogged at some point. Maybe in the cat itself, maybe further down the line, which would mean removing more than you need to for fixing the problem. If you want to keep it legal, get a universal and have a shop weld it on—probably won't be more than $100 with labor. Of course, if your mechanic was the one who recommended gutting it, wouldn't he be the "shady shop guy" that would be willing to do this for you?

The thread title made me laugh... I thought of a house cat committing seppuku.
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Old 10-06-2010, 11:03 PM   #17
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I'd definitely gut it now for the reasons mentioned. If it fully collapses, your exhaust will be clogged at some point. Maybe in the cat itself, maybe further down the line, which would mean removing more than you need to for fixing the problem. If you want to keep it legal, get a universal and have a shop weld it on—probably won't be more than $100 with labor. Of course, if your mechanic was the one who recommended gutting it, wouldn't he be the "shady shop guy" that would be willing to do this for you?

The thread title made me laugh... I thought of a house cat committing seppuku.
He doesn't have a welder, other wise he would lol
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Old 10-07-2010, 12:27 AM   #18
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i say gut it and just clamp it back on
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Old 10-07-2010, 02:34 PM   #19
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i say get a new cat, and a test pipe. clamp whichever you prefer at the time you want/need it
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Old 10-29-2010, 03:30 AM   #20
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Well, i should have listened to you guys sooner..

One of the large chunks have stuck right to the converter outlet pipe, my exhaust is one step away from a tiny hairdryer. As well as there not being any exhaust sound, if it sticks when im driving, i get a ton of power loss, and when i hit the gas (even a tiny bit) it sounds a whole lot like my clutch is slipping hard as shit.

Any one have any methods for getting inside there and gutting the rest while the car is on jack stands? I dont have access to a lift at the moment
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