4th Gen Wire Hide Mod/TCS Relocation with Bracket

Well last weekend I started and finished the Wire Hide Mod and TCS Relocation and seeing as how I didn’t like the thought of the TCS module just being zip tied like other sites suggest, I modified the original bracket to hold the TCS behind the PCM.

Tools Needed:

  • jack stand
  • floorjack
  • lugnut wrench long nose pliers
  • 1/4 ratchet drive with extensions and 10mm and 14mm(I think) sockets.
  • electrical tape (WIRE HIDE and TCS MOD)
  • wire strippers (TCS MOD)
  • soldering gun with acc. (TCS MOD)
  • shrink wrap (TCS MOD)
  • hole saw for metal (I used 1 3/4″)
  • Metal L bracket with holes (TCS MOD)
  • 1 3/4 rubber grommet (WIRE HIDE)
  • 5′ wire for extending TCS wiring (TCS MOD)

First thing you’re going to do is pop the hood and admire the mess of wires on your passenger side strut tower. Some don’t mind it, I hated it.  I like having a more clean look.  This mod does increase the chance of your wiring becoming wet since it basically just lays on top of the wheel well shroud but I have mine taped very tight so I’m not worried.  Plus this car will rarely ever see rain.

FIRST AND FOREMOST. Remove the negative battery cable before you mess with any wiring (make sure your theftlock isn’t armed on your radio unless you know the code to unlock it).  What you need to do is start unclipping the wiring harnesses on your strut tower.  There are 4 of them and they will have orange or blue pins in the harnesses that you need to pull out in order to separate the two halves of the harness.

Now loosen your passenger side front lugnuts and once loose, jack up the car and place a jackstand underneath.  Then remove the lugnuts and front passenger wheel.

Now you’ll need to remove the 3-10mm bolts that are holding the plastic shield up.  Here they are.  You will also need to remove the plastic push pin on the front of the shield but you can leave the rear push pin (by the door) in place.  You’ll also have two bolts holding the shield to the splash shield underneath the front bumper but I still chose not to remove these as the shield is flexible enough for me to just bend it down to get the drill to the metal.  Don’t worry, the shields are very flexible, unless your shield is split or cracked already then you can bend it, it wont hurt it.

Now you see the inner workings of the wheel-well.  Now what you’ll have to do is reach down and unclip the ABS wheel speed sensor harness and there is another clip holding it to the inside of the front rail beside the passenger side manifolds/headers.  You’ll have to climb under the car to get this one.

Now pull that ABS wire up by the computer and remove the vacuum hose that is attached to the junction to the right of the computer.  Now remove the wire looms and harnesses from the actual strut tower by reaching under the inside and using your fingers or long-nosed pliers to pinch the pins together and pull the pins out.  Now your wiring should be free and loose. Here’s where you can leave the TCS alone or if you want to remove it to relocate it.

Either loosen the TCS wiring from the loom so you can keep it where it is or do like I did and cut it with the wire cutters so you can lengthen the wires later.  I wanted to relocate the ground wires here too so I removed those from the strut tower and layed the nuts/bolts off to the side.  I also opened the wire loom and pulled the ground wire out more so I can mount it up under the front. WIRE MOD BREAK

TCS MOD START: I went ahead and took care of the TCS at this point. You’ll remove the two bolts holding the TCS in place. One on the top corner of the bracket and another underneath the TCS.

Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the ECM down and wiggle out the ECM and lay it over the hood strut out of the way. Here’s what you have.


Some websites tell you to use zip ties to hold it back in there…….That’s stupid, it just takes a little thinking and you can securely mount it back there.  This took me some trial and error on my part but it ended up great and you can know how to do it fairly easily without having to guess.  You can use the zip ties if you want but it is what it is.

I only had a T Bracket at my disposal so I didn’t have an L bracket but I ended up cutting off one of the ends of the T to make the L otherwise it wont fit on the firewall.

Basically all you’re going to do is round off the corner of the L. Youll need to remove this screw in the firewall so you can mount your new bracket. See below.

You’ll need to tap the second hole from the top so you can screw your modded TCS bracket into it using the old mounting bolts that held it to the front of the engine bay (will get the actual size of the tap when I go home next weekend) There are two nuts holding the TCS bracket onto the bottom of the TCS. Remove these and what you’ll do is bend one of the mounting sides 90 degrees so the bracket can be mounted like such.

^^^ You’ll also need to cut or grind down some of the other side of the bracket so the ECM wont hit it. Some of you may not feel comfortable cutting up your factory bracket but I don’t even plan to take it back to factory and even if I do, it’s not a big deal to get a replacement.

^^^ Here’s how it will mount behind the ECM. The great thing about this is that you can get to BOTH of the mounting bolts once it’s mounted so it worked out fantastic and you wont have to worry about it rattling on anything.  Mount the bracket you made onto the firewall and then mount your TCS module in place and you can just use one nut on the underside to hold it down. Once you get it to where you feel you like it with the cables facing the drivers side you can tighten it all up and you can now replace your ECM and bolt it down, just make sure you have access to plug your TCS harness back in. It takes a little wiggling but the ECM will fit back down in there and mount securely. You may want to remove the actual two large connectors on the ECM to make it easier to move around.


WIRE HIDE MOD Continued:
Now to continue the wire hiding.  Now what you’ll want to do is  solder on the wiring extension for the TCS. I went with Red wiring because you wont see it but you can get color matching wires if you want.  Just make sure you know which wire goes to the gray and which one is soldered to the white. Cut 5′ wire in half and solder each 2 1/2 foot to the cut ends of the TCS wiring beside the battery and shrinkwrap it.

NOW TO CUT THE HOLE. WEAR A MASK AND SAFETY GLASSES. You’ll have to judge for yourself where you want the hole but it’s not that hard to see just try to get it as close to the hood strut mount as possible.        I drilled this hole with the computer in place, it’s not that difficult and unless you’re just wild with a drill, you wont hit the ECM.  Get your pilot bit and put a little bit of oil on the end of the bit and start drilling.

Once you have the pilot hole drilled, put on your 1 3/4 metal hose saw and get to drilling.  Just take caution when cutting and take it slow. Pretty soon you should have your hole cut.

Once you get it cut and the metal removed, take a file and smooth down the edge of the hole and then use sandpaper to smooth it out even further.  Don’t cut your fingers.  I’m going to use a grommet, but for now the wiring is just through the hole.

Clean up your mess and start to route your wiring through the hole by the ECU and run the wiring from by the battery through the inner fender and up into the wheel well.

Hook everything back up and run the ABS Sensor wire and vacuum hose back to where they go.  Make sure everything is hooked up underneath and the safety pins are put back in place on the harnesses.

Take you new TCS wire extensions and run them along the other wiring and through the hole.  You’ll have a little excess and you can determine how much extra wiring you want for slack. Strip, solder and shrinkwrap the old plug back onto the extensions and tape it up.

Plug your TCS back in and you’re done with that.

I completely wrapped all my wiring with black electrical tape to help keep moisture out and for added protection in addition to the wire loom. I’d recommend this as you will rarely even need to get back into the wiring and even if you do, all you have to do is cut the tape off.  Some guys suggest velcro to keep the wiring up and in place but all I did was create a small hole in the shield and plugged one of the harness pins into that to keep it stationary.

^^^ Bolt the wheel well shield back up with the 3-10mm bolts and push pin. Slap your wheel back on, lower the car and you’re done.  No more wires on the strut tower.

Now I still need to decide where I’m going to put my ground wires but that is an extremely easy job and self explanatory, basically. find a new hole, tap it and stick it. Just make sure all of your pins are back in place and secure, hook your grounds back up and reconnect battery and job done.  If I have left anything out, hopefully someone will remind me but this is as pretty in-depth as I can get other than holding your hand when you do it. Enjoy!

This mod is compatible for all 4th generation F-bodies with the exception of the TCS on the 93-97 F-bodies which is located in a different location but the Wire Hide Modification is the same for 93-2002 Camaros and Firebirds.

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