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94 trans am starting problem

2786 Views 32 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  jonathandg87
94 trans am lt1. Car cranks but starter sounds like it kicks out. It's also getting no spark. I'm looking into changing the opti, coil, and icm. Any advice would be appreciated.
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Just from reading a decent amount of forum threads, I suggest researching the Opti you plan on buying. A lot of people suggest certain brands, so you can find out a lot about the quality and reliability, and I would research them. Or any part for that matter.
Yeah I've heard a lot of the aftermarket ones aren't very good.

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Msd or ACDelco are the only units worth buying. I would start with the opti. While the ICM could be a culprit it's not as likely as the opti.
The car ran great and then I went out to get gas and it would crank but not start. I heard if the opti is bad it will miss and backfire and that's what is confusing me. It ran great and out of nowhere just stopped starting.

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The car ran great and then I went out to get gas and it would crank but not start. I heard if the opti is bad it will miss and backfire and that's what is confusing me. It ran great and out of nowhere just stopped starting.

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I had an opti fail when driving down the street.
No back fire, no spit or sputter, nothing, just simply failed.
I'm definitely going to have to check it out then.

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Mine did that on my 94, ran really strong and then just died without warning.


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Mine did that on my 94, ran really strong and then just died without warning.

98 z28 bolt-ons with no tune drag radials [email protected]

02 firebird v6 almost all stock except slp lid and k&n filter
Was it the opti on your car?
Ive been through 6 or 7 optis they all died differently. Some went without warning some went slowly.
Msd or ACDelco are the only units worth buying. I would start with the opti. While the ICM could be a culprit it's not as likely as the opti.
Typically I'd agree with 94 ta, except here. I'd start cheap and work my way towards the more expensive stuff. The icm and coil cam be changed in 10 Min, and both can be had for under $100. With the opti your looking at $400 and probably a full weekend if it's your first time.
What have you done to diagnose the no start issue?

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Was it the opti on your car?
It was, but like jhobbins said, start cheap. You can get the icm tested at most parts places, just make sure they test it a few times. They usually fail under high heat conditions. Yours may fail right off though since you have no spark. If it doesn't fail immediately, I would suspect that your issue is somewhere else probably the opti.

98 z28 bolt-ons with no tune drag radials [email protected]

02 firebird v6 almost all stock except slp lid and k&n filter
I tested to see if I got spark at the plugs and nothing. No spark at the coil. Someone told me it could be my ignition switch because it's been acting funny too. I have to hold the steering wheel at a certain angle to even get it to crank.

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But when it cranks, it should spark. I would suspect the icm first. Take it to a parts store, and get them to test it for you.


98 z28 bolt-ons with no tune drag radials [email protected]

02 firebird v6 almost all stock except slp lid and k&n filter
I'm thinking it is the icm.

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You can tell if the Opti is dead without doing any real work. Just watch the tach while cranking a non-starting car. The needle should rise up slightly to about 200 rpm. If it doesn't, the Opti is dead. If it rises up but still won't start, it could be a loose rotor or something else.
The ICM has no effect on the tach reading, so that is a possibility.

This video shows how it should look. Watch the 2nd attempt to crank. The engine was prevented from starting by removing the injector fuses temporarily:
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You can tell if the Opti is dead without doing any real work. Just watch the tach while cranking a non-starting car. The needle should rise up slightly to about 200 rpm. If it doesn't, the Opti is dead. If it rises up but still won't start, it could be a loose rotor or something else.
The ICM has no effect on the tach reading, so that is a possibility.

This video shows how it should look. Watch the 2nd attempt to crank. The engine was prevented from starting by removing the injector fuses temporarily:
Thanks, I will try that today.

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You can tell if the Opti is dead without doing any real work. Just watch the tach while cranking a non-starting car. The needle should rise up slightly to about 200 rpm. If it doesn't, the Opti is dead. If it rises up but still won't start, it could be a loose rotor or something else.
The ICM has no effect on the tach reading, so that is a possibility.

This video shows how it should look. Watch the 2nd attempt to crank. The engine was prevented from starting by removing the injector fuses temporarily:
Ok, so the tach moves like you said. I changed the coil today and still no spark. I noticed the security light was flashing. I think it could be vats. I'm going to see how to reset it or bypass it.

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My tach goes up to 500 rpm when cranking. Also the security reset didn't affect anything

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Do a bypass on the security, I have never had luck on the reset. If it starts, then you will know it's vats related. Does the security light keep flashing while you try to start it?


98 z28 bolt-ons with no tune drag radials [email protected]

02 firebird v6 almost all stock except slp lid and k&n filter
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