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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Alright, so a week or so ago my friend and I were under the car painting my exhaust. We noticed there was a leak of some kind near the rear axle. My friend is pretty good with cars, but couldn't figure out what it was. It was really messy down there. It was pretty caked on, but some parts were still wet. To the touch, it looked alot like dirty motor oil. I was doing some reading and wonder if this was differential fluid, and if that means that's what's leaking. Is this a tough fix? I cant really tell where it's leaking from, and I should probably get back down there and clean it up to find out, but I figure, if it's all caked up in there, at least that's slowing the leak, and if I clean it all off, the fluid will have more room to flow out. haha.
Any help guys. If anyone needs pictures or anything, let me know, and I'll get some.
 

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If you can possibly get some pics of exactly were it is leaking at, that would be very helpful. i can see what i can figure out.
 

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if its just the diff gaset then its pretty easy..but youll know if its diff fluid for shure if it smell funky. i had just changed the gasket and fulid on my about 2 weeks ago took me about half an hour and all i did was back the car up on ramps.. clean it up and check youll find out
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
If you can possibly get some pics of exactly were it is leaking at, that would be very helpful. i can see what i can figure out.
It's kinda cold outside but I'll see if I can manage a pic. I warn you it's pretty dirty. Now, to find my camera... (recently moved back home for the holidays).
 

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I am suspect of your pinion seal due to the oil in front. Hard to see in these pics. Check your fluid level and add some if needed. Then I would spray it off with a degreaser or brake cleaner. Go drive it around then see if you can see where it is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright, here's the diagnosis. Took it to Pep Boys and they lifted it so they could check it out for me. He says the differential is leaking and the oil in it is low/old. They can reseal it or whatever it's called and change the fluid for $52. He did mention the Pinion Seal. that's going to run me $149 bucks. He also says I need to change my brake fluid, and get a power steering fluid flush. Also need a fuel system clean ($89) and new fuel filter for ($56). I think it was the pinion seal he was talking about that's going to take alot of work and that's why it's so expensive. Probably going to get most of this done next week by them. Said it'd take them roughly 2 hours. Good thing parents are helping out with costs!:D (crosses fingers)
 

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fuel filter $10, maybe 10-15 min to put it on. I would at least do that myself
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
fuel filter $10, maybe 10-15 min to put it on. I would at least do that myself
I brought that up with him. He said it could be difficult since I dont have any ramps or anything. So it'd be a tight squeeze down there, and he says I'm dealing with alot of pressure in the fuel line, and alot of people mess it up and cause leaks. I do figure he's trying to make a buck anyway he can, but honestly, is it easy? I'm pretty much a noob when it comes to these things, but I do want to learn.
 

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drop top cruzer
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yeah it's on the drivers back side, you could use a jack and maybe a jack stand to make sure the cars doesn't fall. just take the gas cap off will relive the pressure.
hell heres the how to

Removal & Installation

Camaro, Firebird, 1999 - 2002

The inline fuel filter is located on the fuel feed pipe before the fuel injection system and mounted directly in front of the rear axle. The filter housing is constructed of steel with quick-connect inlet and threaded outlet fittings. The threaded fitting is sealed with an O-ring. In order to disengage quick-connect fittings, a fuel line quick-connect separator tool set, such as J-37088-A or equivalent, is required. There is no manufacturer set service interval for fuel filter replacement. We suggest replacing the filter every 30-40 thousand miles.
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Clean both the inlet and the outlet fittings on the fuel filter. The inline fuel filter is mounted in a bracket located under the vehicle, directly in front of the rear axle
  4. Disengage the quick-connect fittings at the fuel filter inlet as follows:
    1. Slide the dust covers from the quick-connect fittings.
    2. Grasp both sides of the fitting. Twist the female connector 1/4 turn in each direction to loosen any dirt within the fitting. Using compressed air and safety glasses, blow any accumulated dirt out of the fitting.
    3. If equipped with the plastic hand releasable fitting, squeeze the plastic retainer release tabs and pull the connection apart.
    4. If equipped with metal fittings, choose the correct size quick release tool and insert the tool into the female connector, then push inward to release the locking tabs. Pull the connector apart.
    5. Use a clean lint free rag to clean male pipe ends. Inspect both ends of the fitting for dirt and burrs. Clean or replace components as required. If it is necessary to remove rust or burrs from the fuel pipe, use emery cloth in a radial motion with the pipe end to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface.
  5. Remove the threaded outlet fitting from the chassis fuel pipe. Slide the fuel filter from the bracket.
  6. Inspect the fuel pipe O-ring for cuts, nicks, swelling or distortion. Replace if necessary.
To install:
  1. Slide the fuel filter into the bracket.
  2. Tighten the outlet fitting to the chassis fuel pipe. Torque the fitting to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  3. Engage the quick-connect inlet fitting as follows:
    1. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. This will ensure proper reconnection and prevent a possible fuel leak.
    2. Push both sides of the fitting together to cause the retainer tabs to snap in place. Once installed, pull on both sides of the fitting to ensure connection is secure.
    3. Reposition dust cover over the quick-connect fitting.
  4. Tighten the fuel filler cap.
  5. Confirm that the ignition is in the OFF position. Connect the negative battery cable.
  6. Pressurize the fuel system by cycling the ignition without attempting to start the engine. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds, then turn to the OFF position for 10 seconds. Again, turn to the ON position and check for fuel leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Write up looks good. Couple of issues though.
The threaded fitting is sealed with an O-ring. In order to disengage quick-connect fittings, a fuel line quick-connect separator tool set, such as J-37088-A or equivalent, is required.

No such tool in my possession unfortunately.
2. Tighten the outlet fitting to the chassis fuel pipe. Torque the fitting to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).

Not sure on how to measure the torque.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright. Took the car to Pep Boys. They changed the differential fluid, resealed it or whatever, did a fuel system flush, changed filter, brake and power steering fluid change. Took them all freaking day. Mom payed. Woot for xmas present. lol. 300 something. Car is getting better! I do have I think a leak still from the pinion? Not sure. I'm going to take it in next month maybe, should be a 150 dollar fix. Sigh...
 

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keep an eye on it, if it is leaking from the pinion seal, I've never worked on 3rd or 4th gen., so I don't know, but older models have a big pinon nut right behind driveshaft, if nut is loose it will leak a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
keep an eye on it, if it is leaking from the pinion seal, I've never worked on 3rd or 4th gen., so I don't know, but older models have a big pinon nut right behind driveshaft, if nut is loose it will leak a little.
Look at the first 3 pictures I posted earlier in the thread. Is that the bolt you're referring to? It seems to be the only now that's really dirty and got gunk all over it. Is that the pinion? Apparently fixing that leak, I was quoted will cost me around 150.
 

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no, the nut is infront of your differential, directly behind the driveshaft u-joint. If its the same as older models. Your pinion has got a bearring, goes through housing, seal, cap, flange for u-joint, then a big nut, about a 1.25 inch. If nut is a little loose, seal can seep. I think thats the order. I had an older chevy, that was leaking, driving me crazy, took it to the shop where my brother worked, he said it was the pinion nut loose. If it's loose, it will leak and run down to the bottom, the dirt on bottom soaks it up, then its hard to find. Clean the front real good, then look at it after you drive it a couple of hours. If it still leaking, try to tighten that nut. It might not turn but a half round, or quarter round, but that is what was wrong with mine. If rear drivetrain is set up like older models. You will have to drop your driveshaft in back. I would also check with somebody else before I paid 150
 

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did you ever do you fuel filter, change mine today about 10 min with two kids getting in the way uh I mean helping...lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
no, the nut is infront of your differential, directly behind the driveshaft u-joint. If its the same as older models. Your pinion has got a bearring, goes through housing, seal, cap, flange for u-joint, then a big nut, about a 1.25 inch. If nut is a little loose, seal can seep. I think thats the order. I had an older chevy, that was leaking, driving me crazy, took it to the shop where my brother worked, he said it was the pinion nut loose. If it's loose, it will leak and run down to the bottom, the dirt on bottom soaks it up, then its hard to find. Clean the front real good, then look at it after you drive it a couple of hours. If it still leaking, try to tighten that nut. It might not turn but a half round, or quarter round, but that is what was wrong with mine. If rear drivetrain is set up like older models. You will have to drop your driveshaft in back. I would also check with somebody else before I paid 150
What is in the blue is still gunked up. What is in the red is the nut i'm referring to. That is not the same nut you're talking about? It seems to have most of the gunk. What is this nut if not the pinion?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
did you ever do you fuel filter, change mine today about 10 min with two kids getting in the way uh I mean helping...lol
No i didn't. I wanted to, but I thought the fuel system flush included the filter change. When I found out it didn't i went to AZ and picked one up for 7 bucks. Compared to Pep Boys' 15 dollar one. Maybe next time I'll do it myself.
 

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no, thats not it, when you get up in the morning look under your car on the pass. side in front of the rear tire, follow your driveshaft to the rear end. where driveshaft stops, directly behind it is a big nut, then a flange (looks kinda like a u). The nut is in that flange. A seal is not much, maybe 15 dollars, but I don't know what all you have to go through to put it on a newer model. Should be same as old model, drop backend of driveshaft, remove nut, flange, thin metal cover (round), then its either a seal or bearring. How do you put a pic on here after postting reply? I can post a pic of the nut on 92 camaro right fast for you.
 
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