So i am new here... Well i just registers but i always read articles for tips. So i need some help from yall. My car wouldnt start yesterday it turned over but it wouldnt start. So i checked out the fuel filter (its a 97 Camaro RS, v6) and boy that fuel filter was the original one, needless to say dirty ooze came out. So my next test was with the fuel filter off will the fuel pump spray gas, well it didnt, so i went ahead and got a new one and started the trap door project, well a few hours ago i installed the new pump, reconnected all the lines and still nothing, wont start. so i removed the filter and it still wont spray. Is that even a good way to test the pump? What else could it be?
Fuel pump relay maybe.
BCM issue maybe, does the security light go out?
Turn the key to Run but don't try to start the engine.
The security light should go out in 3 to 4 seconds.
Jump a wire from the positive side of the battery to the fuel pump prime connector and see if the pump runs: A picture of the connector location is at this link: http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_prime.jpg
I changed the Fuel relay yesterday when it first stopped working, my security never goes out. I checked the fuses by the engine, but i didnt try the in car fuses, i didnt see a fuel fuse. I will try to connect the wire to the fuel pump prime
That could very well be the problem. The ( VATS ) Vehicle Anti Theft System disables the fuel pump.
During normal operation, when you turn the key on, the fuel pump runs for 3 seconds and then stops. When the engine starts and IF the VATS system, which is part of the ( BCM ) Body control Module, recognizes the key chip, the fuel pump relay is re-energized to run the pump in normal mode.
My security light has always been like that but what if a key without the chip tried starting the car. I have a feeling a family member may have used the key template i have (from when i changed the ignition lock) that doesnt a chip on it. My key is fine, is there anyway to test the VATS system? If its the BCM how can i fix it? I know its behind the glove box but i dont know what to do with it.
Well, if your key is fine the security light should go out.
If it doesn't, either your key isn't fine or there's an issue with VATS.
One thing to try is to reprogram the VATS to the key.
With your "good" key, turn to RUN but do not try to start it.
Leave it that way for a minumim of 10 minutes.
Have a cup of coffee or a beer or soda ( or two if you're thirsty ) or something.
After the 10 minute minimum, turn the key off and remove the key.
Reinsert the key, turn to run and wait 3 seconds, then try to start it.
If that doesn't work you need to trouble shoot the VATS system.
Gotta ask though, are you sure the chip in the key matches the original for the car?
If it does, measure it's resistance and they try the VATS bypass trick. How to bypass the VATS system in a late model GM vehicle
I am going to try that now, Yeah i am sure it matches, ive used it plenty of times. I had considered doing the bypass when i first broke the ignition lock cylinder but i deceided i might as well leave it in. Thanks for all the help
Well i tried it and no luck, so tomorrow i am going to perform the 12v test on the fuel pump to eliminate that, then bypass the VATS system. if that doesnt work is there any way to know if its the computer or the VATS module?
I dont have a computer and cant really get it to anywhere with one. However, if i can pick one up for relatively cheap from the store than i might grab one.
Well i connected the fuel pump prime connector to the battery and the fuel pump did work. Tomorrow i am going to bypass the VATS system because it is annoying and raises the cost of spare keys so i am not sad to see it go. But what does it mean that the fuel pump worked when jumping the primer?
Means the fuel pump is in working condition but the Security light staying illuminated on the dash is disabling the pump from operating when you try and start the car. Anti-theft.
Do the VATS bypass, or get your stuff fixed at a dealer. Going to run you over $300 though, just an FYI.
Well today i checked the pump again it works, then the pcm it works, then i did the VATS bypass and still wont start, my security light has always stayed on constantly even before this. so i have a friend who is good with electrical and hes going to look at it. any other ideas though? could it be non fuel related? its turning over just not starting. maybe the fuel injectors? I hate going to a dealer lol
Hmm, is there anyway to completely remove the VATS system? I know some track cars have done it, but is it just like removing the module and splicing the wires together? Or i have been trying to find one for sale online but i all i get is links about how to bypass, know anywhere that sells them? and where is the module that needs to be replaced located? I might be able to snag one at the junk yard? Thank you guys really for the help, its really nice.
You would need the key from the vehicle also so it matches the module.
What resistance was the chip in your key and what resister did you use for the bypass?
IIRC the VATS module is part of the body control module. ( BCM )
I had a number seven key which is 1.870 and i used three resistors a 1.5, .330, and .47 to get closest as possible, all of the resistors were 5% with 1/2 amp. when i looked at autozone all they had was a ignition control module but i am about to look at gmparts right now. thanks for the link i am checking it out now.
Did it seem like i did it incorrectly? Should i reset the VATS maybe? To be honest i really am throwing parts at it now. If it was a non electrical part this wouldnt be an issue but i have no idea about all these modules and computer systems, all the stuff i learned is backyard mechanics.
Bud...our cars are backyard mechanics these days. A new truck has at least 15 Computers R bodies have up to like 28 I think it was...our cars are doing good with what...3 or 4? yeah...technology is great.
I know they do and i hate it, i understand the benefits of computers, but i think it takes away from the spirit of the car. My best memories are me and my dad working on the cars. I remember when we used to joke about the air pressure sensor being broke... Now my girlfriends chevy malibu has a tire pressure sensor..
Just an update to the guys helping me, i am ordering the new VATS module, but incase you guys are interested i found this, i am by far the worst when it comes to electronics so i am not doing it but there is a way to fake the whole VATS module. Complete Passkey II delete - Camaro Forums - Chevy Camaro Enthusiast Forum (dont kill me if i am not allowed to link to another forum)
But i thought the method was really a good idea, i know some people choose to by racing PCMs and have them flashed? to not need the VATS module anymore but i am not sure.
They have a price to match I think it was Rolls Royce that instead of a bunch of different little computers it basically has a desktop hidden away in the car. But anyways back on topic...
EDIT: That link sounds like it would work from skimming but I can't pull up the picture/diagram.
I am not planning on doing this, but i was considering building it till my new bcm arrives or just leaving it in my glove box incase the next time my VATS goes out i wont be stuck somewhere.
go to any car stereo/remote starter place, they can bypass vats
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