Well it's cranking, so you need to check your fuel pressure. Just because you're fuel pump comes on, doesn't mean it's providing enough pressure to overcome the fuel injector resistance. If you can determine if you're fuel pressure is good which should be roughly around the 50 psi range, then move on to ignition. If you're pressure is extremely low, then check your fuel filter which is located under the drivers seat under the car. Check that it's not clogged up. Before you do any of this though, check ALL of your fuses and relays, before you throw all your money at a guessing game.
Please Help!!! It turns over but will not start...
SO i was driving down my street the other day, and when my car was at about 2,000-2,500 rpm and all of a sudden she stalled... now she will just turn over when you crank it but no sign of starting. i jumped the fuel pump and that still works. i scanned the computer and there are no codes... i put in a new ignition module cause i thought that might be it but it still does the same thing... any help would be greatly appreciated! cause i have no idea what to do and i dont want to spend more money when its not for sure. thanks
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
ok, i will check that tomorrow. i dont remember when i last changed the filter so ill put in a new one
Make sure you relieve the fuel pressure out of the system if there is any before you remove the filter. Getting a face full of gasoline isn't fun. You can blow throw the filter and if it feels like there is hardly any restriction, then you don't need to replace it.
x2 especially when it gets in your eyesMake sure you relieve the fuel pressure out of the system if there is any before you remove the filter. Getting a face full of gasoline isn't fun.
We've been having the same problem with my wife's 98 for the last year and a half. Sometimes it will not start - but sometimes it will start, only to fail a couple of miles down the road.
I am pretty sure it is electrical, because when it happens, all the guages go dead, including the tach while the engine is still turning. It is driving us nuts. I'll paste what I posted on the general technical forum yesterday. So far, no one has come up with a solution, but my guess is that this has happened to others.
It may require replacement of the entire computer, since most of the other likely culprits have been replaced.
I can say that I have an old Ford Ranger pickup that demonstrated similar symptoms. I finally gave up and took it to a mechanic. After 3 days of fiddling and parts replacing, he found that the main harness to the computer had loosened at the firewall where underhood wiring connects to the in-cabin harness.
Again, here's what I wrote on the general tech forum:
My wife's baby, our low-miles (80k), 5-speed, 98 T-Top V6 coupe with the "performance and handling package" is driving us crazy.
About a year and a half ago, the car began having hard start moments (sometimes it was fine), and began cutting out on the road. Tach went to zero even though engine was still turning. No guages. No check engine. No codes.
We took it to our local mechanic and after replacing the crank sensor, it ran fine for two days and then began dying again. He replaced the coil packs and then the car ran fine, started easily and did not give us any problems for a year and a half.
Two weeks ago, right after passing its annual emissions test with flying colors, it started having the same exact problems. Would run fine, then on the next attempt to start -- would not start. Wait a day and it might start, after running roughly and belching smoke (suspect it had loaded up with fuel because I could smell gasoline every time I tried to start it), it would clear up, run fine, but within minutes of driving it down the road, it would start bucking, tach would drop to zero and it would die.
So...after doing a little research, I first replaced the cam sensor. No change. Took it back to the mechanic who'd worked on it year before last. He replaced the crank sensor again. No change. Replace the ICM under the coils. No change, but it did start once. AND he WAS now getting a code for a bad cam sensor.
Replaced the cam sensor I'd just installed and voila -- started and ran. He kept the car for two more days, letting it idle and runing it on errands whenenver he could. No problems. Saturday, I went to pick it up and pulling the long hill about a mile from his shop, it died, suddenly without any bucking.
I read somewhere on the Net that someone had similar problems and it turned out to be a wire, that was broken inside its intact insulation that lead to the crank sensor.
The mechanic is now trying to restart and will wiggle all the wires and connections he can find. We've already spent about 500 bucks on this thing and could easily spend another 500 before we debug it.
Has anyone seen this problem? Wanna by a low miles Camaro, LOL?
I am pretty sure it is electrical, because when it happens, all the guages go dead, including the tach while the engine is still turning. It is driving us nuts. I'll paste what I posted on the general technical forum yesterday. So far, no one has come up with a solution, but my guess is that this has happened to others.
It may require replacement of the entire computer, since most of the other likely culprits have been replaced.
I can say that I have an old Ford Ranger pickup that demonstrated similar symptoms. I finally gave up and took it to a mechanic. After 3 days of fiddling and parts replacing, he found that the main harness to the computer had loosened at the firewall where underhood wiring connects to the in-cabin harness.
Again, here's what I wrote on the general tech forum:
My wife's baby, our low-miles (80k), 5-speed, 98 T-Top V6 coupe with the "performance and handling package" is driving us crazy.
About a year and a half ago, the car began having hard start moments (sometimes it was fine), and began cutting out on the road. Tach went to zero even though engine was still turning. No guages. No check engine. No codes.
We took it to our local mechanic and after replacing the crank sensor, it ran fine for two days and then began dying again. He replaced the coil packs and then the car ran fine, started easily and did not give us any problems for a year and a half.
Two weeks ago, right after passing its annual emissions test with flying colors, it started having the same exact problems. Would run fine, then on the next attempt to start -- would not start. Wait a day and it might start, after running roughly and belching smoke (suspect it had loaded up with fuel because I could smell gasoline every time I tried to start it), it would clear up, run fine, but within minutes of driving it down the road, it would start bucking, tach would drop to zero and it would die.
So...after doing a little research, I first replaced the cam sensor. No change. Took it back to the mechanic who'd worked on it year before last. He replaced the crank sensor again. No change. Replace the ICM under the coils. No change, but it did start once. AND he WAS now getting a code for a bad cam sensor.
Replaced the cam sensor I'd just installed and voila -- started and ran. He kept the car for two more days, letting it idle and runing it on errands whenenver he could. No problems. Saturday, I went to pick it up and pulling the long hill about a mile from his shop, it died, suddenly without any bucking.
I read somewhere on the Net that someone had similar problems and it turned out to be a wire, that was broken inside its intact insulation that lead to the crank sensor.
The mechanic is now trying to restart and will wiggle all the wires and connections he can find. We've already spent about 500 bucks on this thing and could easily spend another 500 before we debug it.
Has anyone seen this problem? Wanna by a low miles Camaro, LOL?
ok, so i thought about the fuel pump thing before i went and tested the pressure, and that doesnt really make sense considering i have jump the fuel pump in order for it to turn on. it never gets a signal to turn on when you put the key in, the pump is pretty new so i dont think that it is bad but, i have no idea where to look. i guess i will try wiggling some wired around and see what happens. but still the car is in front of my house and has not started since this tragic incident. so i am still looking for ideas
you might have gotten a bad fuel pump. it happened to me. check your fuel pressure and go from there.
Sounds like it might be a VATS issue.ok, so i thought about the fuel pump thing before i went and tested the pressure, and that doesnt really make sense considering i have jump the fuel pump in order for it to turn on. it never gets a signal to turn on when you put the key in, the pump is pretty new so i dont think that it is bad but, i have no idea where to look. i guess i will try wiggling some wired around and see what happens. but still the car is in front of my house and has not started since this tragic incident. so i am still looking for ideas
whats vats?
Vehicle Anti Theft System.whats vats?
Does the security light go out?
yes after i leave the ignition in the on position for a few seconds the light goes out.
What was the pressure when you checked the fuel pump pressure?
You say it does not turn on when you turn the key to the run position?
You say it does not turn on when you turn the key to the run position?
i did not check the fuel pressure because the fuel pump does not kick on unless i jump it. The pump DOES NOT turn on when the key is in run position.
Were you having to jump the fuel pump before it quit on you while driving down the road and before all of this happened?
no, it was working fine until that point. since then i have to jump it to get it to turn on
The fuel pump should run for 2 or 3 seconds and then stop when you turn the key to run.
It does not stay on, but turns back on when the engine starts.
You need to see if the fuel pump relay is getting power for 3 seconds when the key is turned to run.
The fuel pump relay is behind the kick panel in front of the drivers door.
Also, check fuses
It does not stay on, but turns back on when the engine starts.
You need to see if the fuel pump relay is getting power for 3 seconds when the key is turned to run.
The fuel pump relay is behind the kick panel in front of the drivers door.
Also, check fuses
hm... the fuel pump is not kicking on at all, not even for those 2 or 3 seconds when you first turn the key. i will check the relay out, i checked all the fuses and they are all good.
I once came acroos a great article on the sequence for the f-body fuel pump, but did not bookmark it and now can't find it.hm... the fuel pump is not kicking on at all, not even for those 2 or 3 seconds when you first turn the key. i will check the relay out, i checked all the fuses and they are all good.
You might have luck Googling for it. If I find it I will post it.
well i just tested the relay and that is good. there is no signal coming to the relay tho. so i dont know
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Camaro Zone Forums
A forum community dedicated to Camaro owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
