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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a simular problem. I had my engine replaced 2 years ago. Now, from time to time, while accelerating (usually in 2nd or 3rd gear) my car will start to sputter and hesitate. RPMs stays steady, not shooting up or falling down. I recently had my fuel pump changed, and my fuel filter replaced too, but it is still sputtering. It seems like it happens more on wet, humid or cold days. Oh and I have had this car for 7 ears and replaced the Catalytic Converter 3 times. I have a 2001 Camaro V6. Any suggestions?
 

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Depending on your environment, sounds like your engine bay is water logged or your fuel delivery system is dirty. Try running a couple of fuel system cleaners through your car. One at half tank, the other on a full tank.

Had this issue once, but that's all I can say with the information you've provided.
 

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Seafoam the engine and see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Codes- Yes there are codes but they were the some ones ive had from before i was having this problem, Small Vaccum leak or O2 Sensor problem.

I have tried Seafoam, Lucas and B12, seems to help a bit but with the next tank of gass, same problem.

Just had a new fuel pump and Fuel filter put in. It helped a bit but still sputtering.

Lack of power: yes for just a second. it feels like i stomped on the break for a second then punched the gas, but the RPMs stay normal.

Side Note, When i changed out my fuel filter, the fuel looked like Chocolate milk. I know i waited too long to change it, but do you think it may have caused damage to the engine, or maybe a fuel line flush might help?
 

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cherokeetaw said:
Codes- Yes there are codes but they were the some ones ive had from before i was having this problem, Small Vaccum leak or O2 Sensor problem.
Fix those, they can cause your problems
 

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cherokeetaw said:
Codes- Yes there are codes but they were the some ones ive had from before i was having this problem, Small Vaccum leak or O2 Sensor problem.

I have tried Seafoam, Lucas and B12, seems to help a bit but with the next tank of gass, same problem.

Just had a new fuel pump and Fuel filter put in. It helped a bit but still sputtering.

Lack of power: yes for just a second. it feels like i stomped on the break for a second then punched the gas, but the RPMs stay normal.

Side Note, When i changed out my fuel filter, the fuel looked like Chocolate milk. I know i waited too long to change it, but do you think it may have caused damage to the engine, or maybe a fuel line flush might help?
Seaform the vaccuum line into the engine...
 

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Sounds like contaminated fuel to me. Since you have had your fuel filter replaced, I would recommend checking your fuel tank for rust. you might try a little dry gas too. It is also possible your injectors are fouled, I would consider having the injection system professionally flushed.
 

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When i changed out my fuel filter, the fuel looked like Chocolate milk.
I would drop the tank, drain it.
Change the filter again and start with fresh fuel.
Or change the filter once a week until the fuel that comes out of the the one you take off is clear.
 

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fingerprintguy said:
Sounds like contaminated fuel to me. Since you have had your fuel filter replaced, I would recommend checking your fuel tank for rust. you might try a little dry gas too. It is also possible your injectors are fouled, I would consider having the injection system professionally flushed.
Injectors ^ 2.
 

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Well I just came across this data sheet that might close the gap of this elusive problem for some people.. The chugging, misfire effect might be a simple fix after all..

Diagnose Buick 3800 Engine

** Common Problems with the 3800 Engine:

Intake Manifold Coolant Leaks

The Buick 3800 V6 is a fairly reliable engine, but coolant leaks on the Series II 3800 engines with the plastic intake manifold have been a problem. The OEM intake manifold gasket tends to deteriorate after 60,000 or so miles in the area that seals the cylinder head coolant passage to the manifold. The fix is to replace the intake manifold gaskets.

Intermittent Hesitation While Accelerating or While Cruising

An intermittent chuggle or hesitation that can be felt during light acceleration or while cruising at highway speeds with no Check Engine light or no fault codes set may be caused by intermittent operation of the automatic transmission torque converter clutch (TCC). The problem is not the torque converter clutch or clutch solenoid, but a faulty input to the powertrain control module computer from the engine's throttle position (TPS) sensor. The fix for this problem is to replace the TPS sensor.

Vehicles that may be affected by this include the following:
1995-1999 Buick Riviera
1995-2004 Buick Regal
1995-2005 Buick LeSabre, Park Avenue
1997-2005 Buick Century
1995-2001 Chevrolet Lumina
1995-2002 Chevrolet Camaro
1995-2005 Chevrolet Monte Carlo
2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala
1995-1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Ninety Eight
1995-1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight
1998-2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue
1995-2002 Pontiac Firebird
1995-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
1995-2005 Pontiac Bonneville
with 3800 V6 Engine (VIN K - RPO L36)

Engine Cranks But Won't Start

There are a variety of possible causes for a no start, but one of the most common with the 3800 engine is a bad crankshaft position (CKP) sensor or a bad ignition control module (ICM). The crank sensor contains two hall effect sensors that sends two signals to the engine computer. A problem with the sensor or the wiring connection between the sensor and computer can prevent the computer from receiving a cranking signal. Without this signal, it can't start the engine.

The crank sensor has four circuits: a 12-volt reference circuit, a low voltage reference circuit, and two signal output circuits.

NOTE: If the crank sensor is bad and needs to be replaced, a special relearn procedure must be performed after the new sensor has been installed using a GM scan tool or an aftermarket scan tool with similar software. This step is necessary so the engine computer can correctly recognize the sensor's signals.

Diagnosing the crank sensor requires looking up the engine wiring diagram for your vehicle, then testing the voltages for the various crank sensor and ignition module circuits to find the fault. With the key on, you should find about 4 to 8 volts between each of the crank sensors two output circuits and the low voltage reference circuit. If the crank sensor tests bad, it needs to be replaced. The sensor is located on the front of the engine under a cover behind the crankshaft pulley. If the crank sensor tests good, the problem is likely the ignition control module, a fault in the ignition wiring harness, or possibly a fault in the engine computer.Intermittent Misfire While Driving

An intermittent misfire that occurs while driving may be caused by a weak coil or worn spark plugs. The distributorless ignition system on the 3800 V6 is a waste spark system with three ignition coils. Each pair of cylinders shares a common ignition coil. Cylinders that are opposite one another in the engine's firing order are paired so their spark plugs share the same coil. This reduces the total number of coils needed. When each coil discharges its high voltage output, it fires two spark plugs simultaneously: one when cylinder is on its compression stroke, and the other when the cylinder is on its exhaust stroke.

They call it a "waste spark" system because the plug that fires on the exhaust stroke does nothing. Only the plug that fires during its compression stroke produces power. Even so, both spark plugs experience roughly twice the electrode wear that spark plugs in other types of ignition systems undergo (because the fire every engine revolution rather than every other engine revolution).

Remove and inspect the spark plugs. Replace the spark plugs if any are found to be fouled or worn. The spark plugs should be gapped to .060 inches. If the spark plugs appear to be okay, inspect the ignition wires. High mileage wires (those with over 100,000 miles on them) can develop increased resistance that may cause the engine to misfire. Replace any wires that are cracked, fit loosely or are damaged.

If the plugs and wires are okay (or you've replaced them), and the engine still experiences misfires, use a scan tool to check for misfire codes. The Check Engine light should be on, and there should be one or more misfire codes for the cylinders that are misfiring.

The last digit on a misfire code indicates the cylinder number. A code P0302, for example, would tell you cylinder #2 is misfiring. Chances are the misfire is due to a weak ignition coil.

The three ignition coils on the 3800 engine fire cylinders 6 and 3, 2 and 5, and 1 and 4. If you find misfire codes for any of these paired cylinders, you can be sure the problem is a bad ignition coil and not something else such as lean misfire caused by a bad fuel injector, vacuum leak or EGR leak, or compression misfire due to leaky or sticky valves.

Ignition coils can be replaced separately on the ignition module. But if one coil is bad, it may be a good idea to replace all three on a high mileage engine to prevent similar problems down the road. **
 

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I had almost exact problem. For me it ended up being a bad coil. I had no ses lights either. I did plug, wire, and coil change. ( got new parts cheap on eBay.) Car runs great now.
 

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So this thread is about 9 years old but I am starting to have this issue. I have replaced the plugs, wires, coil packs, and ICM. I have listened to the injectors and they seem to be running fine (used a stethoscope to hear the consistent clicking) so idk if the injectors are bad or not since they all click at the same rate. I am willing to replace those if I need to but it's becoming really annoying lol.

Anyhow let me know.
 
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